I'm intrigued. I know this is going to get kicked into the DIY section, but why do you only have 4 1/2" for a header? Sounds like you need to rethink the area where the door or window will be placed.
header size
I'm trying to determine if there is a way to get an adequate header in a limited space. Local structural engineers charge a huge fee for this, so I'm hoping to find a solution without one. I need to create a 6' -1.5" opening supporting a roof and 16' ceiling joists 16" o.c. and a 40 lb. live load in a 12' 2x4 wall. The problem is that there is only 4.5" from bottom of opening to bottom of double top plate. Obviously, wood is inadequate. Is there a steel/wood combo or steel beam that would work in this space? Any feedback is welcome.
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I agree.Sounds like there should be more room to put in a bigger header.I'm intrigued. I know this is going to get kicked into the DIY section, but why do you only have 4 1/2" for a header? Sounds like you need to rethink the area where the door or window will be placed.
7' ceilings perhaps?:blink:
No way of telling for sure, we have had to put headers on top of the walls and hung the ceiling off the header.
Get a shorter window perhaps, I think that a steel tube could fit the bill but you will still need it to be engineered.
I could do the calcs. for you for $500.00 (in advance) but I won't sign or guarantee a damn thing. :shifty:
Andy.
I could do the calcs. for you for $500.00 (in advance) but I won't sign or guarantee a damn thing. :shifty:
Andy.
Sounds like he actually has 7.5 inches if he can cut out both top plates. I bet a double LVL and a steel flitch would probably carry that. Throw that suggestion to your engineer to be sure.
Don't your plans have to be sealed by a P.E. or and Architect?I'm trying to determine if there is a way to get an adequate header in a limited space. Local structural engineers charge a huge fee for this, so I'm hoping to find a solution without one. I need to create a 6' -1.5" opening supporting a roof and 16' ceiling joists 16" o.c. and a 40 lb. live load in a 12' 2x4 wall. The problem is that there is only 4.5" from bottom of opening to bottom of double top plate. Obviously, wood is inadequate. Is there a steel/wood combo or steel beam that would work in this space? Any feedback is welcome.
Even if they don't are you really going to go by what you read on the internet?
Liquid nail header formula :thumbsup: Home depot Isle 5 3 shelf from the bottom.
I added the red. So lets start.I'm trying to determine if there is a way to get an adequate header in a limited space.
Local structural engineers charge a huge fee for this, so I'm hoping to find (some cheap solution on the internet that might result in a structural failure and kill someone....but who cares....I saved a HUGE ENGINEER FEE) a solution without one.
I need to create a 6' -1.5" opening supporting a roof and 16' ceiling joists 16" o.c. and a 40 lb. live load in a 12' 2x4 wall. The problem is that there is only 4.5" from bottom of opening to bottom of double top plate. Obviously, wood is inadequate. Is there a steel/wood combo or steel beam that would work in this space? Any feedback is welcome.
You KNOW the situation requires some form or engineering input - its that pesky thing called cost that is bothering you.
By that definition..... you = hack.
I will say this real plainly. Do things right, or don't do anything at all.
In a case like this you must first establish the co-tangent.I'm trying to determine if there is a way to get an adequate header in a limited space. Local structural engineers charge a huge fee for this, so I'm hoping to find a solution without one. I need to create a 6' -1.5" opening supporting a roof and 16' ceiling joists 16" o.c. and a 40 lb. live load in a 12' 2x4 wall. The problem is that there is only 4.5" from bottom of opening to bottom of double top plate. Obviously, wood is inadequate. Is there a steel/wood combo or steel beam that would work in this space? Any feedback is welcome.
Once determining the co-tangent divide it by the co-sequent.
The remainder will give you the load aberrance.
I CAN NOT STRESS THIS ENOUGH…..CARRY the Ought!!!!!
Once the remainder has been established or in this case the “sequent” we add the 4.5” and end up with the non variable of TREE-FIDDY!
Put that on your plans and get your inspector to sign off DONE DEAL! :thumbsup:
Let us know how it turns out!
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