I like that...

Looks like one of those things that will separate "Framers" from "Rough Carpenters".

I'm thinking of all of the things that could "f" this method up:
-A hump or dip in the foundation
-debris under the wall
-different thicknesses of joist lumber (i've seen 2x10's from 9-1/8" to almost 9-1/2")
-dumdums (they need jobs too...)

 

I shim my foundation with a builders level. The top of my floor is flat within an 1/8". Edit: I should clarify more what I do at this step. Foundations are almost always screwed up. It's not that I am saying foundation guys are bad, I know from experience that it's tough to do foundation work and get it perfect. So, sill goes directly on top of foundation, no matter what it looks like (to some degree of course) On top of that I frame the floor joists so that the tops of the floor joists all are flush with the top of the rim (I don't care what the underside looks like). Then I go around with a builders level and level to the top of the floor framing system, shim as required. Plywood goes on top, flat floor. If theres a joist with too much a crown, I don't put it in, plain and simple.

An air chuck before you raise the wall cleans anything under there. It should be clean before you build it, so all there should be is sawdust.

Joists I run flush to the top of the rim, thus flat floor

Dumdums last 5 minutes with me, thats why I work alone. I have problems with idiots, I can't stand them working with me in the least bit. I can usually tell if someones any good just talking to them before they even get out their hammer. Basic question I ask "do you have a construction master?" If they don't, I have some training to do right off the bat.

 

basic question I ask "do you have a construction master?" If they don't, I have some training to do right off the bat.

Theres a lot of aspects to framing that don't require the use of a calculator.I know guys that are good at calculating but can't make a straight cut so i don't worry if some one cant use a calculator because they may excel in other areas such as cutting etc...

 

OOPs.

 

Yeah I know I shouldn't have said that. It'll self destruct after ten minutes.

 

lots of people know how to do math without a calculator. i hope im not the only one.

 

:no:

 

:whistling:sad::no:

 

do you put your headers right above the door or window, and then run your cripples off the header up to the top plate, or run your headers right under the top plate, and fill frame down to the top of the door or window? I've done it both ways, but I prefer to fill frame- as a remodeler, I've seen to many times where we are trying to put in a taller window or door, but the header is right in the way, making it a lot bigger job than if the header was all the way at the top of the wall.

 

It's all in the square!

Tempest,

I like to frame the headers under the top plate and frame down from there. This comes in handy if there are changes midway thur the framing and either windows or doors get bigger.

I don't ask anyone if they have a CM or SC( you don't need one to frame a house or roof for that matter), I just hand them the framing square and ask them to layout a set of temp stairs. If they start looking at the square like it's a boomerang, I know their going to need some help.:jester:

 

I like to put the headers high too.

I was asked to build a set of sawhorses (for timber framing) and lay out stairs on the first day of a job years ago, got a two dollar/hr raise on the spot! :thumbsup:

 

i like to use an ink line on the tyvek to mark the studs. then i stand the wall and know where the sruds are when ready for siding.

 

another unique thing we do is frame our houses square and plumb according to the measurements on the blueprint.

 

Why is that unique?

 

I'm not really looking to separate anyone from anyone. It wasn't my intention if anyone was offended thinking I was saying that I was better than them, look at me. I'm not like that. I'm more "you have a different way than me, not wrong, just different"

I place my headers high because of one very costly mistake made by my friendly Hispanic workers I hired that read "81-1/8" TR" on the plates and thought that meant rough opening. I was changing doors for awhile to say the least. They were doing well, so I didn't bother checking their work. That's what I get from hiring cheap workers!

Now with the CM. I didn't say someone wasn't good enough if they didn't have one, or that you could use a pencil, or know math/trig, or think they were a retard. I use my CM for many, many things and while I am very good at math, I am not so proud that I will pull out my pencil and do trig just because I know how. It's all about production for me. If you can show me you can use a scientific calculator, then I don't mind.

I had a guy respond to my question "am I a construction master?" He pumped out his chest and said "everything is right there on the side of the framing square. People have been using those numbers for decades" Fair enough, next day after watching him swiveling the framing square around for 30 minutes or so, I went down and first showed him how to use the framing square with the measurements, then showed him how much more productive he could be simply pulling the CM out of his pocket and punching numbers.

I'm getting a little off subject, but framing (any business really) is about making money. And to make money you have to produce. To make more money, you have to produce MORE. Use tools that are available to you to produce. You can obviously use the framing square and a pencil, but it is not more productive than a CM (or a scientific calculator if you know how to manipulate the keys)

Back on subject, I have gone through almost 25 years and done an immense amount of trial and error. "Will this work? Let's try!" If it does, great, more money. If it doesn't, then don't do it again. I am constantly thinking of ways to do better, it's the way we will keep ahead of the others in this country illegally who do it for dirt.

I'm especially interested in seeing if Joe Carola will post something. If I know him, he won't and I partially know the reason why. It's his edge knowing something others don't. His edge to produce more than the guy next door, simply from the knowledge he has gained from the many years in framing. I'm leeching a little because I am drifting towards different things now, not so much framing anymore.

 

:sad::whistling:thumbup:

 

I never said it was better.

 

Years ago when we used to use 5/8 subfloor then 5/8 underlayment throughout the house we would rip strips the same thickness as the underlayment by 3-1/2" and put them down under the outside walls, that would allow all underlayment to be put down before setting inside walls saving a LOT of cutting and notching.Then all walls can be set using pre-cuts and be the right height. This is assuming you are using trusses that require no bearing walls. We don't do it that way much anymore with the 3/4" t&g sub-floor but it might work for somebody in the right situation

 

When dealing with sissor trusses I never ordered a gable sissor but just another regular sissor. Then I would balloon the wall to the roof line and slap the sissor against the wall to act as the nailer and take a little off the vertical load. I do this because Ballooning to the bottom chord creates a hinge line. The hinge line can be supported with bracing and there is nothing wrong with it but I don't like a hinge line... i also don't like when guys break their sheathing along this hinge line.

 

I design with a balloon gable end wall and forget the truss. Then, forget matching the truss. The g.e. wall is framed 3-1/2" short to allow for lookouts to support the eaves. WAAAY stronger and flatter than a fly rafter.

 

:notworthy:thumbup::thumbsup:

 

Squaring off of any line... Draw two intersecting arcs from any two points on that line with your steel tape. Draw two more arcs a little farther out form the first two arcs. Snap a line on the two points. .This technique has many more uses than just finding 90 degrees .

 

I use floor trusses for the second story floor. The exterior walls that don't support the trusses are designed taller to include the depth of the floor truss. Then, there is no knuckle joint.

We always install micorwave/exhaust hoods. Range is always on an exterior wall. Plans call for the location of a block out so after the cabinets are installed, a vent can be installed through the wall unimpeded by studs.

 

OK, layout for 3/4 ply on the bathroom walls. Where does the wacko lady want her towel bars? Guaranteed to be backing there. And when she gets older you can come back and put a few grab bars in for her too... Actually i used 1/2" ply. it always worked well.

 

This thread brings to mind the fact that how you were taught is the way you usually frame, because you consider it to be the right way...and there are always ideas we pick up. Until I read Ruiz's book on high-value, low cost construction...I wouldn't do a 2 stud corner for anyone....but the engineering supported making the change, plus it allows for insulation. Another practice I have picked up is not building headers unless the load on the wall dictates they are needed. There is a place in framing for practical engineering.

If you are building for yourself, you might be surprised at what you can save and still be well built...there is no reason to overbuild.

 

I try to do the same with non bearing headers on the exterior walls, but builders around here just want meat for the trim to attach to. I don't understand it either. They also want a 5 piece outside corner, 4 build together as a box and a fifth from the other wall....and fiberglass batts before you cover LOL.

 

I will double up a piece of end rim joist to act as a window header in the basement below. This is especially handy when trying to get a taller window in those step down foundations. O course you have to check your load/ size requirements.

Actually a double rim could probably replace a bunch of headers but I never took it that far.

I saw a structual gable truss for the first time recently. Web braced with vertical nailers. That too should reduce the sizing requirements for headers below.....Getting a structual gable to sit flat on the wall would mean the truss shop boys would have to get the bottom chord nice and straight but i'm sure they could do it if they wanted to.

 

Remembered a few more. I saw a guy do this once and tried it with some success. To nail off outside corners of ply on the second floor without a ladder, attach the nail gun to a stick, pole, stud, whatever with duct tape and tape the trigger open. Raise it up, or lower it from the top plate to nail 'er off.

Around here in the Northeast, many use 5/8" T&G Advantech for roof sheathing. I always put the tongue down until a builder said to me "put the tongue up, that way if it rains on your roof, the seams won't swell as much and the rain sheds off better rather than inside your structure"