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Nail-Bender
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
SO, as many of you know, I switched from working new home framing to renovations about 6 months ago.

I have been on the same complete gut, reno/addition since I started with the company. I started laying the hardwood yesterday afternoon/today. I got to the last few rows, and used the 16g nailer where the flooring nailer couldn't be used.

Now, I know it is ok.... to face nail/fill the final 2 or 3 rows that you can't get a good angle on with the nailer.

But... I was wondering, since you guys always have amazing ideas for stuff I would have never thought off, does anyone have an alternate route or maybe a tip/trick for me that I can bring to the lead carpenter and boss to wow them?

Cheers, gents.



Incase anyone cares or was wondering, new job is going amazing, they are really impressed with my door hanging/casing skills (that I didn't know I had) and loved my stair framing.... but.... ya know, stair framing is my bread and butter.
 

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Brutus said:
SO, as many of you know, I switched from working new home framing to renovations about 6 months ago. I have been on the same complete gut, reno/addition since I started with the company. I started laying the hardwood yesterday afternoon/today. I got to the last few rows, and used the 16g nailer where the flooring nailer couldn't be used. Now, I know it is ok.... to face nail/fill the final 2 or 3 rows that you can't get a good angle on with the nailer. But... I was wondering, since you guys always have amazing ideas for stuff I would have never thought off, does anyone have an alternate route or maybe a tip/trick for me that I can bring to the lead carpenter and boss to wow them? Cheers, gents. Incase anyone cares or was wondering, new job is going amazing, they are really impressed with my door hanging/casing skills (that I didn't know I had) and loved my stair framing.... but.... ya know, stair framing is my bread and butter.
I'm not sure what they call this tool but they make a chisel type tool that takes a slit out of the material and you nail in that slit and the bit you chiseled out just glues back down with zero visible signs you done it. I would say its OTT for flooring as I only ever seen it used on high end woodworking.
 

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Finishing Carpenter
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Lee Valley used to have something like that. I think it's called "the invisible nailing kit" it would do what you want.

I think that would work, but only on real hardwood. You wouldn't be able to use it on pre-finished flooring, or anything that's not wood with a grain.

I sure don't know how else to fix your problem, hoping some of the flooring guys here will chip in.

I get asked to do flooring frequently, but I always turn it down. Tons of flooring guys in my area, working dirt cheap. I have to do some creative things now and then with baseboard to cover the HUGE freakin gap that's left between the flooring and the wall.

Not always, but ususally when it's a home owner install.
 

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I don't do hardwood all the time, but when the flooring nailer won't fit I switch to the 15 ga, then that don't fit, use the 18 ga with some dabs of glue, then you're usually close enough to glue the last row or two and drive wedges to hold until dry. Don't know if it's right, but it works for me.
 

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Working
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Like Pinwheel we just glue it down and stack some boards or tool boxes on it to hold it down over night.

Cole
 

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What i want to do next time is get some sort of right angle drill (green one…) and pre drill on the tongue for trim screws. I think I could get all but the last one.
 

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Nail-Bender
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
What i want to do next time is get some sort of right angle drill (green one…) and pre drill on the tongue for trim screws. I think I could get all but the last one.
That's not a bad idea. Even the last row you can face nail where the base will be covering it.
 

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Hardwood floors/custom cabinets
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Like Pinwheel we just glue it down and stack some boards or tool boxes on it to hold it down over night.

Cole
I don't even worry about stacking stuff on top. I jack them in place so they're good & tight & face nail the final board right at the edge so the base will cover the nails.
 

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Artist and not a curator
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I'm not flooring guy but a couple times I just put a little titebond in the groove and a dab of PL on the floor. Tested it, it wasn't going to come apart.
 

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Hair Splitter
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Saw that a few years ago when we had a larger SWB Flooring job. Wouldn't work on that stuff so I held off from picking one up. I have a couple of floors to install in the next few months, think I'll pick one up this time.
 

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Head Light Bulb Changer
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Just face nail and glue the last couple of rows. Ya ain't building a piano.

Ain't no way in hell I'd spend the time required to use that on flooring.
I have one of those. They're great for when you're doing a repair in the middle of a floor where face nails will be seen. I only use it for that purpose, as you have to keep it sharp and in good shape. It's a PITA to use, but the resulting repair is nearly invisible.

I don't subscribe to the glue only, no nails school of thought. Glue can/will fail. A mechanical fastener is much less likely to fail.
 

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Hardwood floors/custom cabinets
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Just face nail and glue the last couple of rows. Ya ain't building a piano.



I have one of those. They're great for when you're doing a repair in the middle of a floor where face nails will be seen. I only use it for that purpose, as you have to keep it sharp and in good shape. It's a PITA to use, but the resulting repair is nearly invisible.

I don't subscribe to the glue only, no nails school of thought. Glue can/will fail. A mechanical fastener is much less likely to fail.
I slip in replacement planks into a bed of pl premium, no nails. That's the one place I do put weight while the glue sets. I trust good glue more than mechanical fasteners.
 

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Focusing on solutions.
Hardwood floors/custom cabinets
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I'm not a flooring installer so maybe gluing down the edge of a hardwood floor is fine but I have to wonder about seasonal movement. How much movement should one expect on a 20' wide room? I keep remembering the image of a buckled floor I saw online somewhere.
Polyurethane glue like PL premium & bosticks best will give with expansion contraction. It remains rubbery even when dry.
 
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