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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does it seem strange that the Hardie installation guide doesn't speak to how deep the nail should penetrate into the stud? It justs lists nails. Isn't each wall different? Different sheathing maybe, use of rainscreen or air gap or not. If I do the math of taking 2" nail and backing out the width of hardi, sheathing, acceptable penetration into stud before hitting electrical, rainscreen, I know I won't hit wires, but I also want to know that it will be correct for the siding itself.

http://www.jameshardie.com/pdf/install/hardieplank-hz5.pdf
 

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I dunno, but is says quite clearly here what size fasteners to use under what conditions.

BLIND NAILING​
Nails - Wood Framing​
• Siding nail (0.09" shank x 0.221" HD x 2" long)​
• 11ga. roofing nail (0.121" shank x 0.371" HD x 1.25" long)​
Screws - Steel Framing​
• Ribbed Wafer-head or equivalent (No. 8 x 1 1/4" long​
x 0.375" HD) Screws must penetrate 3 threads into metal framing.​
Nails - Steel Framing​
• ET & F Panelfast​
® nails or equivalent (0.10" shank x 0.313" HD x 1-1/2" long)

Nails must penetrate minimum 1/4" into metal framing.​
OSB minimum 7/16"​
• 11ga. roofing nail (0.121" shank x 0.371" HD x 1.75" long)​
• Ribbed Wafer-head or equivalent (No. 8 x 1 5/8" long x 0.375" HD).

If you change the conditions, then you would need to change the length of your fasteners.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I don't agree with that is says it "quite clearly". I have wood framing and I will be blind nailing, so I go to either "wood framing" or "OSB" depending on plywood or OSB sheathing, I think. Why isn't "wood framing" labelled Wood framing- 1/2" plywood? Also no mention of air gap or rain screen. Are those so uncommon these days that they don't need to be mentioned in an installation manual? Keene Driwall Rainscreen is 1/4" so I take it I should use 2.25" inch nails? I feel the instructions should be more explicit.
 

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I don't agree with that is says it "quite clearly". I have wood framing and I will be blind nailing, so I go to either "wood framing" or "OSB" depending on plywood or OSB sheathing, I think. Why isn't "wood framing" labelled Wood framing- 1/2" plywood? Also no mention of air gap or rain screen. Are those so uncommon these days that they don't need to be mentioned in an installation manual? Keene Driwall Rainscreen is 1/4" so I take it I should use 2.25" inch nails? I feel the instructions should be more explicit.
I suppose you're right. But, they can't anticipate every scenario. So, they give the basics and like I said.... change the parameters, change the length of your fastener.

On both wood options, they indicate a "shank" nail. So I made the assumption that meant ring shank. But I guess it could mean the diameter of the nail shank. They also say galvanized.

So, while the instructions may be a "little" skinny. I think they are pretty clear to me what I would need to use.
 

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And to follow up on the shank thing.... I don't know too many (or any) yards that have different sized shanks on nails of the same length. Maybe a 2-1/2" nail has a larger shank than a 1-3/4 nail, but I don't think so.

So, that's why I took the term shank, to mean ring shank.
 

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We use roofing guns and 1 3/4 roofing nails every 16 OC. Never had a problem. I have seen lots of McMansions with hardi sliding off from blown fasteners or missed studs. Pedro's first day with a nail gun I guess.
 

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We use roofing guns and 1 3/4 roofing nails every 16 OC. Never had a problem. I have seen lots of McMansions with hardi sliding off from blown fasteners or missed studs. Pedro's first day with a nail gun I guess.
I agree that a roofing nail is the best when blind nailing. Much easier to get a flush nail with out causing a blow out. They hold almost to good.
 

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If nailing off hardi 2" galvi ringshanks are the common nail for houses. I wouldn't blind nail for fear of hitting plumbing/electrical. Also we nail a finish nail on the bottom corner of all seams for a tight fit. That's the main reason it gets blown off houses when a big wind comes it's the seams an rips it off because blow an go hasn't got his seams tight.
 

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Gaboy said:
If nailing off hardi 2" galvi ringshanks are the common nail for houses. I wouldn't blind nail for fear of hitting plumbing/electrical. Also we nail a finish nail on the bottom corner of all seams for a tight fit. That's the main reason it gets blown off houses when a big wind comes it's the seams an rips it off because blow an go hasn't got his seams tight.
Blind nailing refers to the method of covering the fasteners with the next course, generally by 1 1/4". The finish nail on the corners is called face nailing. I'm confused about hitting electrical and plumbing.
 

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Blind nailing refers to the method of covering the fasteners with the next course, generally by 1 1/4". The finish nail on the corners is called face nailing. I'm confused about hitting electrical and plumbing.
The guys worried about hitting electrical and plumbing are the ones that don't know how (or care) to find and stay squarely on the studs. :whistling
 

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The guys worried about hitting electrical and plumbing are the ones that don't know how (or care) to find and stay squarely on the studs. :whistling
Or hanging Hardie on old 70's or 80's trailers with external cut plumbing and wiring runs.

We use 2 3/16 ring shanks. I couldn't see using roofing nails, as the heads are more likely to pop from leverage. I've never seen anyone use roofing nails here.
 

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I couldn't see using roofing nails, as the heads are more likely to pop from leverage. I've never seen anyone use roofing nails here.
They are approved and hold so much better. I see your point about the occasional pop but really it's not an issue. Sinking a 2 3/16 to far and overlooking it is more common I'd say.

With a roofer nail you really get great holding power with such a wide head. Plus you can crank the pressure up on the compressor and not have anywhere near the issues with properly getting the nails set.
 

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thesidingpro said:
They are approved and hold so much better. I see your point about the occasional pop but really it's not an issue. Sinking a 2 3/16 to far and overlooking it is more common I'd say. With a roofer nail you really get great holding power with such a wide head. Plus you can crank the pressure up on the compressor and not have anywhere near the issues with properly getting the nails set.
And faster, good lord, MUCH MUCH faster!

image-2125606205.jpg
 

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thesidingpro said:
Yes it is much faster. That first piece should be up 2" from that roof at the bottom. :)
Good eye! The first COURSE, is only 1/2" gap, but looks vs. the chances of this customer living here long enough for a warranty claim = make it pretty and come back in 5 years for one piece...(COURSE) :)
 

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WBailey1041 said:
Good eye! The first COURSE, is only 1/2" gap, but looks vs. the chances of this customer living here long enough for a warranty claim = make it pretty and come back in 5 years for one piece...(COURSE) :)
When you go back change out that wavy roof to wall flash too
 

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Good eye! The first COURSE, is only 1/2" gap, but looks vs. the chances of this customer living here long enough for a warranty claim = make it pretty and come back in 5 years for one piece...(COURSE) :)
So you're that guy. If you put a nice looking piece of flashing it would like just as good and be installed properly.
 

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Good eye! The first COURSE, is only 1/2" gap, but looks vs. the chances of this customer living here long enough for a warranty claim = make it pretty and come back in 5 years for one piece...(COURSE) :)
But.... how much harder would it have been to do it right the first time?

Just sayin.... :whistling
 

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I was always under the impression the wire that holds the roofing nail coil together, will rust over time. We only use SS coils. Can lead to streaks.

What's up with using a piece of Azek painted to match the siding or counterflashing to keep it off the roof. Maybe pull that last course and hide the roof to wall flash, just my opinion.
Also, why the two butt joints like 6 in or less stacked up.
 
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