Pointless. Leave it to Simpson to sell you something you don't need.

 

Seems like someone way before me solved this problem without the use of sheet metal brackets.

 

I think it’s a waste. Simpson is up to its old tricks again. Simpson likes to use sub standard framing techniques to give reason for a new product line.:furious:
This application should only apply if rise cut doesn’t have full bearing on the rim board. But because Simpson (in my Opinion) has some much power & control they force change across the board.:furious:
I have built a few decks this year without using the strapping and if the inspector asked why I didn’t use them I tell them the stringer has “full bearing”

 

There is a lot of crap to sort thru in the Simpson section looking for things that are actually needed.

 

I think simpson makes the building codes around here:furious:

 

Wow guys... is this going to bankrupt you??

We use 18ga roll strap and cut what we need for our stringers, it similar to this idea without the lips on the side.

As far as is this a superior method I fully believe it is. When it comes to demoing straps hold way better than blocked and screwed steps. Blocked and screwed steps we just grab and yank and they come right off. Strapped stairs take some work to rip them off.

Personally (and all of my customers agree) I want the step to be dropped and not brought flush up to the deck, it looks retarded when you flush them to the deck surface.

 

Wow guys... is this going to bankrupt you??

We use 18ga roll strap and cut what we need for our stringers, it similar to this idea without the lips on the side.

I have installed stairs using this method.

 

A deck or freestanding stair might be a good (not bogus) application..

Straight framed ... could be overkill

Strapping is a cheap way to do it:thumbsup:.

 

I use a standard joist hanger and cut a little slot in the joist for the foot of the hanger to slide into. Looks much better than that.

Cole

 

^^^ you just killed 1 1/2" of stringer which is why this hardware came into existance

 

Heh.

One little innocuous q, and 10 posts follow, and counting. Why the animosity toward the use of a little steel hanger?

What do they cost, anyhow?

 

Guess we should all get in line like sheep & swear how great this is. This one little piece of sheet metal is going to separate me from the competition & through the time it saves I will finally turn a profit & go on vacation.

Most all stairs I have done the bottome of the horses gets rocked. IMO this little bugger would seem to get in the way if it is used at all.

About a $1.25 up depending on how many you want.

 

We use LSCZs all the time. They are quicker, stronger and faster than any way anyone here could frame and attach a dropped stair to a rim any day of the week.

As much as I hate Simpson, these things are good.

 

I look at stringers as rafters.
If you have a fixed point at the base (wall plate) and nailed at the top (ridge) with full bearing then what is the difference?
There is no difference, that’s why it’s not required on rafter to ridge connects, for now anyway.

 

That's not true over here. Had to use LS70's a few years ago.

 

Thanks, Greg. That is info I can use.

As for you naysayers (or are you "bitter clingers?"), why not tell us how you like all that Simpson steel you are required by code to use, or required to use because the engineer says so?

Is it all really that bad?

 

I have no problem using hardware that is required by code or spec'd by an engineer. I will not go out of my way to use any strap that I feel is not needed. I have built hundreds of steps and never used strapping like that. If your stringer is hanging by that little bit, either add blocking underneath or use a wider board where the stringer meets the deck. I agree with Fes that a stringer is a rafter. If it is fixed top and bottom, where can it go?

 

I hang all stingers of a peice of PT plywood and make sure the bottom is locked into a solid footing or pad. It's very strong and I've never had an issue with the BI. If the stairs are 48" or less then I can get as many as 6 stairscases from a sheet, although most of my stairs are wider.

 

Why am I required to put hangers on joists that cantilever 12" over a beam? It's not really needed, but I do it.

 

Why? That is just wasteful and unnecessary.

 

Oh I agree!!! A local BI made me do it. Since then I just started doing it on all similarly framed decks.

 

Oh I agree!!! A local BI made me do it. Since then I just started doing it on all similarly framed decks.

That's when you tell him, "show me the code".

Go get that Deck Code book I was talking about.

If you guys sat in the class I took (with others here) with Glen Matthewson about deck codes, you'd all be rethinking EVERYTHING.

I changed a lot of what I was doing out of habit (for no good reason other than I thought it was a good way) to doing things simpler that are way more efficient. Things like extending cantilevers, creating notches in joists, etc...

How does this affect the client? It can save them some bucks on stupid things they don't ever see or care about relative to buying a $40k deck so they can spend more money on much more profitable and, to them, desirable items they CAN see and appreciate.

 

In what application are you installing straps, after plywood from rafter to rafter over the ridge?
That application is for plywood lift it has nothing to do with rafter connections.
I have architect change the strapping to 2x6 collar ties 16” OC no more than 12” under the ridge.
See pic