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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looking for a tricks to help making the staircase easier and safer to install by yourself. The way I currently do it is to trim the staircase on the ground. I then prop it on my head, climb my ladder, press the staircase into the hole with my head, and nail it off. This tecnique works, but is really hard on the neck and can be fairly dangerous.9

So do any of you guys that trim houses by yourselves have any tricks that you can share ?
 

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I find it difficult myself to hang disappearing stair cases,

Right when I get ready to put a screw in it, . . it disappears!!!! man its tough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
2 - 2x4's across the opening, just enough to catch the ends of the frame. Pop the unit into the attic and then set it on the 2x's. Nail it home and push the stairs down to get out.
Are you saying to crawl into the attic with the staircase, then place it down into the opening resting on the 2x4s ?
 

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Are you saying to crawl into the attic with the staircase, then place it down into the opening resting on the 2x4s ?
Yes. Even with a second guy this is usually how we do it. The 2 minutes it takes to put up the 2x more than makes us for the neck pain for holding the stairs from below while trying to square them and get it shimmed and all that fun stuff.
 

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Not understanding how Dan does that without having the jamb 1/4" higher the the outer surface of the sheetrock. Being that, the ones I have done have a 1/4" skin connected to the stairs. When the stairs are closed it uses that skin to stop itself at the jamb. Well...I guess you could gap it out.

So I attach two 2x4s to the ceiling. One at the back where the hinges are then one in the very front. Not too close together. Now I know this is a little dangerous but open the unit on the ground then pick it up and slide it onto the 2x4s. Sounds difficult but actually I find it easy.
 
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Not understanding how Dan does that without having the jamb 1/4" higher the the outer surface of the sheetrock. Being that, the ones I have done have a 1/4" skin connected to the stairs. When the stairs are closed it uses that skin to stop itself at the jamb. Well...I guess you could gap it out.

So I attach two 2x4s to the ceiling. One at the back where the hinges are then one in the very front. Not too close together. Now I know this is a little dangerous but open the unit on the ground then pick it up and slide it onto the 2x4s. Sounds difficult but actually I find it easy.
CF.... Interesting.... never thought of that.... and I do alot of 1/man work.....

But you can't open that pup and then lift it up there alone can you????

I'm trying to imagine how you would position a ladder and do that 1/man....?

Interesting approach though.

On a related issue, when in the garage, how are you guys fire-proofing that. ?????
 

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FRAME2FINISH said:
Trim it out, have a 2x tee nearby hold it up pull the tee over to hold it nail it off!!
Ding ding ding! We have a winner!

That's how I do it. It's like eating ice cream, it's so easy.
 

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CF.... Interesting.... never thought of that.... and I do alot of 1/man work.....

But you can't open that pup and then lift it up there alone can you????

I'm trying to imagine how you would position a ladder and do that 1/man....?

Interesting approach though.

On a related issue, when in the garage, how are you guys fire-proofing that. ?????
Yes sir I can. I position the ladder to the side of the opening and actually I prefer my sawhorse if I can reach.

Very rare for me to install one with the sheetrock hung already. So I am not able to put the trim on. Plus there are strategic places to nail/screw the jamb. Not sure how you guys are getting to those places and squaring the unit up.

Like to see the other ideas though!

As far as fire proofing there still will be gaps but I have seen sheetrock screwed and glued to the front of the panel and I have seen it on the back of the panel. Not sure how well either would hold up in a fire but I see both plus and negative of both methods.
 

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Screw some scrap across the short sides of the opening spaced just far enough apart to drop the unit into place. Shim behind hinge mounting holes and at 4 corners to pin unit square. Open door, fasten securely and trim as desired. Complete install including trim, 30 to 40 minutes on average, with tight, glued miters and no gaps.
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Trim it out, have a 2x tee nearby hold it up pull the tee over to hold it nail it off!!
I've thought about doing this. However if there isn't somewhere close to lean the t then wouldn't it be very difficult to grab and place the t while balancing staircase on your head ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
2 - 2x4's across the opening, just enough to catch the ends of the frame. Pop the unit into the attic and then set it on the 2x's. Nail it home and push the stairs down to get out.
Ok I get following the directions. However if I climb into the attic and follow the directions how am I going to be sure the door will open so I can get out ?
I can just imagine climbing into the attic with the staircase, setting it into the hole, nailing it off, and then not being able to open it. Now I'm stuck in the attic.

How do you insure that this will not happen ?
 
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