hand nails or 18 gauge staples, in cedar shingles

The way the grain is most shingles I think nails would make them prone to split. On all the cedar shake gazebo roofs that I do they are stapled. Use a narrow crown stapler not a wide crown stapler & turn the pressure down some.

Ridgid has an 18 ga. stapler thats not bad, shoots up to 1 1/2" staples. I always use stainless steel. The staples hold very well, I use 2 per shake, regardless of width.

cool thanks guys, working on a more detailed drawing from the clients original sketch... funny thing is they want shingles, board and batten and clapboards all in one. no problem hand nailing the clap boards, and gun nailing the b&b i have the guns for that,

anyhow. just a matter of doing the take off and the project being a go ahead

loneframer said:

Ridgid has an 18 ga. stapler thats not bad, shoots up to 1 1/2" staples. I always use stainless steel. The staples hold very well, I use 2 per shake, regardless of width.

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I have the Ridgid 18 gauge stapler and have had no problems with it.

i've used both ring shank siding nails and crown staples. both do a fine job.

18 ga. no good 16 ga.7/16 crown only as far as staple go
http://www.cedarbureau.org/installation/wall_manual/page05.htm

I've been stapling them for years never had a problem.

Was wondering about that myself. I'd guess that the wider the crown, the more likely the shake would be to split but thats just my guess.

jtpro said:

Out of curiosity why do you say narrow?

Do you find it gives more of a solid hold?

Only delt with 1 or 2 cedar shake siding jobs and used hand bangs (spiral shanks).

(worked for a GC and that's what they used)

Never heard of using staples.

I'm NOT debating the use of just stating my lack of experience with.

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I used to have a roofing stapler (3/4" or 1" crown) that I used on one the first ones I did about 15-20 years & found it did not hold the shingles as well as what I call a decking stapler that has about a 1/2" crown. I've used a soffit stapler too with good result's.

deckman22 said:

I used to have a roofing stapler (3/4" or 1" crown) that I used on one the first ones I did about 15-20 years & found it did not hold the shingles as well as what I call a decking stapler that has about a 1/2" crown. I've used a soffit stapler too with good result's.

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Gotcha:thumbsup: Thanks:thumbup:

I was/am only familar with 1/2"or less so I was thinking you ment like a 1/4" as being the "small".:laughing: ( like in underlayment)

AGAIN I was sleeping in class the day the discussed diff. crown staplers!:laughing:

The wider crown limits where you can lay the shingles without exposing a staple in the expansion crack.

jtpro said:

Out of curiosity why do you say narrow?

Do you find it gives more of a solid hold?

Only delt with 1 or 2 cedar shake siding jobs and used hand bangs (spiral shanks).

(worked for a GC and that's what they used)

Never heard of using staples.

I'm NOT debating the use of just stating my lack of experience with.

Click to expand...

Narrow crown typically is 1/4", but Paslodes model is 3/16". The narrow crown holds very well and as someone else posted, gives a little more freedom when placing shakes for the next coarse.

hmmm interesting, i had been hearing they curl and pull away, so if i get this project ill drop the coin and get a stapler.

ive used staplers for building my window jamb extension boxes with a stapler before, i found they are stronger than a pinner, screws work as well but slower and cost more. just a matter of seeing whats in my budget for how good a gun i get

Shake it streight

Anyone know the best jig to use when placing shakes up the wall?
I think I remember one guy using a simple board with maybe a piece of step flashing fastened on the ends.
It had another piece of strapping as a simple dam to insert a row of shingles before just using the staple gun to staple off that entire row.
He pushed the step flashing under the bottom of the last course. If I am thinking correctly, it is a way to keep each row locked in the next position 5,6,or so inches above the last.
And what about using a laser?
I want to be able to place a whole row of shakes in a trough or hold down strap and then staple that row, move up and keep them straight, and do it with some speed.
I know that's asking for a lot.

I've never used a stapler...not to say I wouldn't. We've always handnailed.

The only advice I can offer is to make sure the shingles are squared and jointed to move along at a good pace. Even then, there's a lot of block plane work to keep your gaps even.

My method to stay straight is to snap a line, then nail a 1x ledger through the gaps with a 6 finish hand nail.

I also snap a line with runner then run a string line at 1 inch above reveal mark which holds the course in and then nail the course off all at once. I have always used nails myself.

I would actually like to know how many guys do thier field work first and then do thier pitch work at the end on thier gables

I have always done my pitch work first then fill my field but I see alot of guys going the field first

Good advice guys
I just had a thought! (unusual yes)
Use a piece of J channel on top of a length of strapping.
Think it would help?