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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Done a lot of work for their neighbors a year or so ago & their builder passed along my name.



Custom closet, to be built out of hickory.

Bookshelf in the dining room, to be built out of hickory.

Mudroom bench painted, with a hickory benchtop.

Bathroom cabinet, painted.

Don't beat me up too much on the crude sketchup drawings, I'm a novice. But good enough to close the sale.

Just so happens, I've got a big stack of hickory in warehouse that was sawn off of my own farm. Be nice to see a return off that investment. The rest of the materials were delivered to the new shop last week. Really lovin the fact that I've finally got someplace they can actually drive the forklift right into the shop & set it on the floor.
 

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Focusing on solutions.
Hardwood floors/custom cabinets
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Plywoods & poplar were delivered a couple weeks ago. Started breaking down the hickory plywood today & got all the face frames roughed out for the bookcase. I'll do assembly tomorrow & send it to the paint shop & get started on the mudroom bench.
 

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Looks like a nice project pinwheel and I thought the drawings were great, better than I could manage for sure.

Do you have notches on that linebore jig that a bushing references against ? I'm guessing you drilled evenly spaced holes than ripped the piece in half through the holes ? Alignment dowel on the ends to continue the sequences and as a reference point for starting distance down from the top of the cabinet side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Looks like a nice project pinwheel and I thought the drawings were great, better than I could manage for sure.

Do you have notches on that linebore jig that a bushing references against ? I'm guessing you drilled evenly spaced holes than ripped the piece in half through the holes ? Alignment dowel on the ends to continue the sequences and as a reference point for starting distance down from the top of the cabinet side.
When I made the jig, I setup a sacrificial piece of & put a 1/2" dowel in a hole. Drilled the first hole, laid out 2". Drill, move hole over dowel, drill, move hole over dowel, drill.........ect, ect. Yes, I ripped it in half & set it up for 11 1/4" cabinet sides. I was very anal about setting up the jig so that the top & bottom are the exact same distance to the first hole. One side is spaced an inch more than the other because I run a 3/4" cleat & 1/4" plywood in the backs of my cabinets.

I put a rub collar on the router & let it settle into each recess. I can drill all the holes in a medium sized kitchen in about 30 minutes & it's pretty durn accurate so long as I pay attention.
 

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Thanks for the response on the linebore jig pinwheel.

Are you using repeaters or any other kind of stop block system when you are slicing up all that plywood? I've done larger jobs with a shooting board and skil saw and the only thing that bothers me about the setup was hand measuring/marking the components. It required a serious level of attention, if someone else in the shop had a question for me or I got a phone call that distracted me it was all too easy to mark a line wrong or set the track on the wrong side of the pencil line.
 

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How's the new shop treating you? Are they dropping the material right at the door for you? Pallet jack to get it around?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the response on the linebore jig pinwheel.

Are you using repeaters or any other kind of stop block system when you are slicing up all that plywood? I've done larger jobs with a shooting board and skil saw and the only thing that bothers me about the setup was hand measuring/marking the components. It required a serious level of attention, if someone else in the shop had a question for me or I got a phone call that distracted me it was all too easy to mark a line wrong or set the track on the wrong side of the pencil line.
I wish I'd have taken pictures of the jig I made the other day for the closet shelves. I'll try to explain how I done it. It was a lot easier than the first jig I made.

I made a base that attatched to my router & chucked up a 1/2" spiral bit. I drilled a 1/2" hole 4" from center of the spiral bit. In this hole, I dropped the shank of another 1/2 router bit into the hole 4" from the spiral bit. Next, I used the backside of my makita rail saw rail. In order to get on 2" centers, I had to make a center index mark on the router base, then a couple index marks on the rail, 2" apart.

Lined up the first index mark & drilled a hole. Moved to the second index mark, drilled another hole. Now I'm set to use the extra router bit as an index pin. Move over 1 hole, drop in the shank, drill, move, index, drill, ect, ect. Took longer to set it up than it did to make the new jig.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
How's the new shop treating you? Are they dropping the material right at the door for you? Pallet jack to get it around?
I'm still not very organized. No lumber racks yet, Central dust collectors not hooked up yet, so I'm having to switch hoses from machine to machine still. Got all the fittings ordered the other day, so hopefully it won't be long now.

Yes, the sawmill is dropping materials right inside the shop. They've got a truck mounted forklift. I've got a pallet jack ordered, just hasn't came in yet.

Even though we're not as efficient as we will be, we're loving all the space.:thumbup:
 

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Pin, when you say hickory off your property, are you saying it grew on your property? That's a very nice shop you have there! And great project.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Pin, when you say hickory off your property, are you saying it grew on your property? That's a very nice shop you have there! And great project.
Yes, they grew on our farm. Several years ago, we had a pond built in our timber. We cut down about 75 saw logs. Mostly white oak, but some red oak & hickory as well. Hired an amish sawyer to bring his bandsaw mill to our farm & cut the logs into lumber. Got a buddy with his own kiln, so I hired him to dry it. Ended up with about 5-6000 bd ft of lumber for about 50 cents a bd ft.
 
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