I don't know if you have GP out there, but I would look for "HP 2000". Add a drop of black to it (if you`re painting the trim white) and it will cover & look great.

 

I like ProClassic.
It is self-leveling, dries hard as
real enamel.
Takes 2 coats but the results are
worth it to me.

 

is the Promar200 the same as the ProClassic?

I've been using the Promar200 for trim and it always takes 2, sometimes 3 coats for a really nice finish.

For Howweroll, what is the reference to a "drop of black" mean?

 

I used ProClassic this summer for the first time at the HO's request, OMG it was beautiful stuff, self levels like magic :notworthy

However I nearly peed my pants when it rang up at 38.24 (whith a 25% "discount").

 

ProClassic is much better than ProMar.

My personal favorite is Ben Moore's Waterborne Satin Impervo.

Both are pricey, but you get what you pay for.

 

my favorite trim paint at sherwin williams is >>>>>>Duration Home

 

SW Sologloss

 

Looks quite nice. Nearly "Plastic Like"!!!

 

I may be tempted to repaint my trim. Silly question maybe, but is that SW Sologloss come in a satin or semi?

 

Sherwin Williams Sologloss? No such thing at the SW here. I even tried to google it with no luck.

 

I googled sologloss and it's made by Crown and sold in Britain. The money was listed in pounds. Hey, gimme a couple pounds a dat stuff. pd

 

That Sologloss looks good.

 

This is off the receipt
Southwest Builders I/E Latex Gloss #B21WJ651 for a 5.
Label says sologloss.
It may be a regional thing.
It is all sprayed, brushes well.
Here is another job.

 

Holy reflectivity Batman!!!

 

Try SW Cashmere Med Luster. Lays down like glass. this is what i use on all new residential trim and doors. looks best sprayed. (I use a 411 tip) also looks great if you have to brush out. and cost effective.

BTW that sologloss above looks awsome, dont have that in my area though

 

ProClassic is great stuff for spraying but if your brushing it out I would add floetrol. Cashmere also looks good on trim and is a bit easier to work with.

 

Behr Enamel Undercoater Primer, Behr Premium Plus Semi Gloss. The primer is a leveler and lays down your topcoat like glass, don't over brush the Semi, let the primer do it's job of leveling it out. If you over brush the Semi it will start to dry and thats why you get those lovely brush marks in the finish. Behr isn't all water like most pro paints, so get it on and let it lay down on its own.

 

Please give me the number of your "connection". That is some Great stuff he be servin' you!!!

 

Southwest builders enamel

I like sw southwest builders enamel alot. Proclassic has several things I don't like about it. It gives me bad headaches (Has a very strong ammonia odor); I have found that it doesn't spray well and orange peels easily. It's 30% more than the southwest builders and the coverage of the southwest is the same if not better. The southwest builders is pretty forgiving to spray, brushes well and costs 22 per gallon. That being said it doesn't look like the paint by RC Painting. That stuff looks awesome!

 

I like Cashmere low lustre for overall great looks.

 

Muralo is the best I've ever used . I've tried Pro-classic and it's just not as easy to work with. I wipe down all moldings with a wet (damp) rag. Apply paint with a small roller and brush it out.

 

You cannot overwork it.
Lay it out, even the mils with a quick tip off and move on.
Anything more and you are asking for trouble, especially with a latex.

Damn, that sologloss looks great but I don't have that in Indiana. We use Pro Classic semi gloss for our trim. A couple of tips about using pro classic, number one like someone mentioned above, it's hard to work with straight out of the can. I suggest breaking down each gallon with floetrol, this is for brushing only. If spraying, I spray the stuff right out of the can. It's a good paint but tricky to work with.

Ack, more latex ProClassic!!
I wish SW would discontinue the ProClassic waterborne product, the alkyd version is far superior. I add a bit of mineral spirits to the alkyd ProClassic and apply with an Ox hair brush to achieve the "sprayed" look when spraying is not an option.
Why doors and trim are spec'd for latex is beyond me.

 

Damn, that sologloss looks great but I don't have that in Indiana. We use Pro Classic semi gloss for our trim. A couple of tips about using pro classic, number one like someone mentioned above, it's hard to work with straight out of the can. I suggest breaking down each gallon with floetrol, this is for brushing only. If spraying, I spray the stuff right out of the can. It's a good paint but tricky to work with.

 

The only time I will ever use Pro Classic Latex is when I can spray it. I sprayed out 180 enamel packages at a high-end retirement complex with the Pro Classic Latex and it looked like a guitar finish.

I had to brush out some handrails in the hallways and it straight sucked. I switched over to 200 Semi...not one issue.

Brushing it brings sags and curtains...and yes I know how to use a brush.

As far as latex trim paints-

Spraying Scenario: SW Pro Classic (209 or 210 tip)
Brush/Roll: Duration Interior (very durable...hence Duration)
or even 200 Semi.

If I am using oil-

Spraying or Brushing: SW Pro Classic Alkyd....and I love an Ox Hair Brush.

 

Brushing it brings sags and curtains...and yes I know how to use a brush.

are you sure? i have used it hundred of times and never had an issue...

 

Does anyone else think that the ProClassic latex smells weird?
I can relate to having a need for a low odor product, I have been looking for an alternative to ProClassic latex for those few contracts I get in a year.

 

the mauralo primer smells like yogert

 

all I really have in my area is PPG, SW's, and Epco (they basically push Benny Moore).

I have never used Muralo. I'm sure that there are a lot of great products that I have never used.

if a guy can make Pro Classic Latex work well for him without issue, more power to him. Even though the finish is great, I just prefer a more user friendly product like the Pro Classic Alkyd or something else.


Wise,
Pro Classic Latex has a high ammonia content for whatever reason and that is the smell we get from it.

Duration is expensive, and perhaps smells bizarre too, but it is a fantastic trim paint. It is what I use in mu own house. User friendly, flows like a champ, lays out great, low VOC, and the most durable and washable latex produce I have ever used. I get it at $30/gal.

 

I really like threads like this, it's fun hearing other people's experience and pref's.
I use SW a lot, but have only used the Cashmere once. I'll have to give it a try. I also never use Duration Home for trim, so am now curious about that. We typically use SW ProClassic WB for trim, and agree that it sprays great out of the can, but can get those nasty little sags in the inner sections of vertical trim. I find that keeping the heat up helps the paint set up faster, and minimizes those.
I love the ox hair brush and oil, but am just tired of breathing the fumes after 17 years....too many headaches and dead brain cells. Ok, should have worn the respirator more often!
Wish we had Muralo is Seattle, haven't seen it, but have heard great things. The BM Aura works well too, though can setup quickly.
I think I'll also have to give the BM Satin Impervo WB another try too, ProWallGuy keeps pushing it with all those fancy videos! I had the similar issue of sags in trim corners with it, not sure why.

 

+1 for oil based SW pro classic. I use it when a house has a small section of white trim (I am a GC).

 

I find that ProClassic works really well on interior metal doors when you roll it on, but it is hard to work with when you brush it on. I love what the final product looks like though. I use BM Regal whenever the client requests it. I like it, but at $58 a gallon it doesn' tmake sense to use it on all jobs. SW Duration Semi Gloss is a very nice trim paint. Another paint that is very nice is Fine Paints of Europe oil or latex. It is probably the nicest paint I have ever used, but it too is extremely expensive. If you guys ever have to do some real high end work I would recomend looking into it.