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I've done lots of pool decks, always just scriped each piece of decking then cut it with circular saw or jig saw. I would have those pavers set first & cut to fit instead of the opposite for a couple reasons. First ease of install, second to keep the decking from being messed up by the masons installing those pavers really being the main reason.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I've done lots of pool decks, always just scriped each piece of decking then cut it with circular saw or jig saw. I would have those pavers set first & cut to fit instead of the opposite for a couple reasons. First ease of install, second to keep the decking from being messed up by the masons installing those pavers really being the main reason.
I started out that way but they screwed up the elevations so they wanted me to put my deck first. I will make b sure they mask it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
You might be able to speed up the guide process by splitting some 1x4 azek and mounting that, if it will bend enough for the radius. Then you don't have to cut and sand the template. The second piece should back the first so it will be more rigid and give you a wider base for your router.
I also thought about bender board for landscaping. : thumbsup:
 

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I started out that way but they screwed up the elevations so they wanted me to put my deck first. I will make b sure they mask it.
Been in the exact same situation, dipchit mason couldn't seem to keep his coping even with the decking & I ended up doing a lot of extra work to fix his screw up. I'd tell them you can match up to their coping easier than vice versa. You can cut to their stone a lot better than they can cut their stone to your boards, I am sure of that. What they'll do is get close then use mud to finish up to the boards.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Been in the exact same situation, dipchit mason couldn't seem to keep his coping even with the decking & I ended up doing a lot of extra work to fix his screw up. I'd tell them you can match up to their coping easier than vice versa. You can cut to their stone a lot better than they can cut their stone to your boards, I am sure of that. What they'll do is get close then use mud to finish up to the boards.
As you can see in the picture, they started to lay the pavers. I dropped by to see the progress and put a level on their work. There was a 2" difference from one end to the other and the center was bowed up 1 inch in the middle! Don't know if it's visible in the pic but you can see the elevation inconsistencies because my ledger board is spot on. So I don't trust them to do chit right now. If they were my Masons we wouldn't be having this conversation they no how to use a level, but the HO hired them. :mad:
 

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Sounds like someone needs some new masons out on that job, ha.

Mark my words those idiots are gonna mess up your decking. Do you work & collect your check before they come back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Sounds like someone needs some new masons out on that job, ha.

Mark my words those idiots are gonna mess up your decking. Do you work & collect your check before they come back.
exactly I'm going to emphasize to the HO and the Masons that concrete dust is very hard to get off of composites. It gets into the embossment and has to be pressure washed. Then the pressure washing is a whole new problem, if not done right it can really fvck things up.
 

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If you are worried about overwhelming the router bit and don't have a thick enough template to do multiple passes then just cut to within a 1/16-1/8" of the template with a jigsaw and/or circular saw and a rough blade and then use the top bearing router bit for cleanup. It will save a hell of a lot of the "dust" too.

If that were ipe I'd probably just run the cut with a circ. saw set to 1/4" depth(so it will cut a curve) and then finish the cut with a jigsaw. I'm weird though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
If you are worried about overwhelming the router bit and don't have a thick enough template to do multiple passes then just cut to within a 1/16-1/8" of the template with a jigsaw and/or circular saw and a rough blade and then use the top bearing router bit for cleanup. It will save a hell of a lot of the "dust" too.

If that were ipe I'd probably just run the cut with a circ. saw set to 1/4" depth(so it will cut a curve) and then finish the cut with a jigsaw. I'm weird though.
Great points Ethan, I actually cut my templates with my circular saw. I think I will get it close with the circular saw first as you are saying.
 

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I'd rather take the time and cut a template out of mdf, rather than mess with bending a form, that way you can tack it down in a couple of spots and not have holes all over the deck boards.
 

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Was going to suggest exactly what Ethan said, including the 1/2" size. If you can control it, do it on a climb cut for reduced tear out. Climb cuts cut cleaner, but are very hard to stop self feeding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
I'd rather take the time and cut a template out of mdf, rather than mess with bending a form, that way you can tack it down in a couple of spots and not have holes all over the boards.
Yes I've decided on a template. I'm going to make new ones out of 1/2" mdf
 

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Why up-cut? You're cutting from the top of the boards, right? If you're doing a full rout with no pre-cut to evacuate the chips then I might use up-cut but I'd be worried about lifting the edge of the cut.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Was going to suggest exactly what Ethan said, including the 1/2" size. If you can control it, do it on a climb cut for reduced tear out. Climb cuts cut cleaner, but are very hard to stop self feeding.
the problem with adding to the rim it will add length to my decking.
 

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Why up-cut? You're cutting from the top of the boards, right? If you're doing a full rout with no pre-cut to evacuate the chips then I might use up-cut but I'd be worried about lifting the edge of the cut.
because for multiple passes you want an up-cut to clear the chips.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Why up-cut? You're cutting from the top of the boards, right? If you're doing a full rout with no pre-cut to evacuate the chips then I might use up-cut but I'd be worried about lifting the edge of the cut.
I may take more then one swipe
 
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