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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm not super experienced working with this stuff. I've got maybe 10 showers with glass accent strips under my belt. I just want to confirm what I've always done. When the glass is attached to a sheet of paper its always installed with the paper out, right? You give the setting material 10-20 minutes to set up and then soak the paper until it peels off easily, correct? I was told to leave the paper in today. To treat the paper as though its similar to the web you often find on shower floor tiles. This strikes me as a certain failure. Am I correct?
 

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Angus where are you???

What you said sounded correct to me. Soak the paper (and yes paper side out on install), and it will come off pretty easily.

Regarding leaving the paper on, I don't understand what you were asked to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys. I was once told to set slate tiles with multi-purpose glue. Multi-purpose as in the type of glue designed for cheap carpet or cheap sheet vinyl. I laughed in that guy's face. I see now I should have laughed at the 'leave the paper in' guy too.
 

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I was told to leave the paper in today
If you mean install the paper face down, Angus was quite polite in his response.

It crossed my mind that that was what you meant, but I thought (couldn't be)

Tell whoever told you that to leave you alone and let you do your job!
 

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do some research for correct mortar type, substrate, manufacturers instructions, paper is always out and look into the one step grout and stick method, very effective for paper faced mosaics.
 

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Most of the glass tile that are paper mounted have instructions of proper installations, though you still need to know that when they recomend these premium thin set mortars to install with that you still disregard that if your going over a membrane such as Kerdi or a product like denshield.

Chris
 

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You probably can't get into too much trouble with glass accent strips (except for the paper issue). But you should be aware of the issues with glass, especially if you do a larger area.

Use a "super latex" thinset that's approved for glass. Not just regular latex. We ran into this when glass was fairly new, followed the suppliers recommendations, installed CLEAR glass with no color at all on one shower wall. After notching the thinset, flattened it all out nice with no gaps, as you should do for all glass (or you might see the notches later). It looked great, but when the hot water hit it, little veins began appearing behind the glass. We came and looked. The latex thinset was not able to maintain it's bond to the glass under thermal expansion. That's one way glass is different than tile. Because of that difference you should also caulk (not grout) where glass meets other walls or floors. Or where glass forms a "window" in an otherwise tiled wall because it will self destruct under thermal expansion. It was interesting to have a window into the effect by way of the clear glass. I hit it with a hammer and you could watch the shock wave travel. The supplier put up a sign the next day about glass installs and the new thinset requirements.

A deco strip? Not so much of a concern. A kitchen backsplash, somewhat. A shower wall hit by water, bigtime.
 
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