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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is it possible to replace a tub unit of the same size without removing a wall?

Only thing I can think of is to do a drop in tub??? I want to sell them a tile shower but first I need to figure out if getting a new tub or shower in there is even an option or physically possible.

Existing tub is 52 between the walls so it is probably 54 on the outside, which is somewhat standard.

This is the layout:
 

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You want to sell a tile shower as in all the way to the floor with a prefab pan? If so, but sure I understand why you need a new tub to fit.

As to how it can work, tubs are short enough that we have been able to bring them in standing up and lay them down after removing some drywall for it to stick into the wall some.

Assuming it would be a type where you would have a 2x4 platform support on the back and sides, the front is the only part that continues all the way to the floor. The only problem I see in your pics is the vanity doesn't give much working room depending on placement of studs in the wall.
 

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Spencer, that tub should have a flange running around the outside that sits either against the studs or against the drywall / backer board / however it was done. Those tiles would be installed over the flange. Maybe you could get another tub in there after you demo to the studs without pulling more stuff out of the bathroom as long as you can unhook the tub control and move it out of the way.

I'll take another look at the picture.
 

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If you want the tile to remain in tact with the exception of the bottom row, the vanity and toilet need to come out... in that room, no other choice...

Best of luck... 8^)
 

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OK, so this looks like it may go the same way my last one did. Stud placement counts. Take off bottom row of tile, find studs at the foot of the tub. Take a vertical column of tilesand backer / drywall off at the stud bay closest to the vanity - two rows may be needed. Unfasten tub flange from walls, and rotate the back edge up and toward you (this is really awkward) to get the bottom front edge of the tub to line up with the stud bay you opened up. Rotate the tub clockwise to get it vertical, then take it out.

Reverse the process to install a new one.

A lot easier to write it than to do it. I've actually had to cut the drywall on the other side of the wall to take one out and put a new one in.

Sometimes the smartest thing is to check the other side of that wall to see where studs and wires are before you commit. In your case, letting people know how hacked up this will be can help.
 

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If you want the tile to remain in tact with the exception of the bottom row, the vanity and toilet need to come out... in that room, no other choice...

Best of luck... 8^)
And at least some of the base mold...

I don't see that he'll have room to rotate it once he clears those locations, so I think there still will be wall cutting involved.
 

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And at least some of the rubber shoe mold...

I don't see that he'll have room to rotate it once he clears those locations, so I think there still will be wall cutting involved.
The reason the toilet and vanity come out (disconnect/reconnect) is not so much for coming out (original tub can be cut out), but for the going in (walk it it and set it)... pop the left leg of the casing off and any base molding.

If the going is in too tight, remove the rock to the right to gain additional space...

But if he pre-measures, this will tell him what needs to be done...

Ripping walls/studs apart is the longer way to do it... not saying it won't be necessary, but I would avoid it at all costs for a simple disconnect/reconnect...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Sorry, I need to clarify.

The reason for removing the tub is because it looks old but more importantly because the tile on the wall are falling off and failing.

The surround needs replaced also.

There is no point in tearing this much up in there and not replacing the floor with tile also, so the vanity will get removed.

If there was no skirt on the tub I would think I could get it in there, but the square skirt is gonna cause the problems and it only makes sense that there would be studs right in line with the skirt.
 

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The reason the toilet and vanity come out (disconnect/reconnect) is not so much for coming out (original tub can be cut out), but for the going in (walk it it and set it)... pop the left leg of the casing off and any base molding.

If the going is in too tight, remove the rock to the right to gain additional space...

But if he pre-measures, this will tell him what needs to be done...

Ripping walls/studs apart is the longer way to do it... not saying it won't be necessary, but I would avoid it at all costs for a simple disconnect/reconnect...
Agreed, but he can see the tub sitting there, so pulling it is a decent exercise in making sure his prep will allow the new one to fit, assuming they're the same size. If the flanges are on the studs, he'll be taking a lot of that drywall off both sides on top of removing the vanity and toilet.

Ones like this just boil down to which set of hassles he (and the HO) wants to live with. Lots of tile repair, or yank fixtures, base cut out sheet rock, etc and put it back together.

If he wants to do a shower, he can just cut it up in place and avoid a lot of the take apart work.
 

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If there was no skirt on the tub I would think I could get it in there, but the square skirt is gonna cause the problems and it only makes sense that there would be studs right in line with the skirt.
That's why it has to be tipped to install. Have it up on end with the skirt toward you, bottom of the skirt to the left. With everything off to the studs, angle the unit to line the skirt up with the front stud bay at the foot of the tub. Now start rotating it down into position at the foot of the tub. The skirt will hit the drywall on the other side of that wall - the drywall will have to be cut to rotate it fully into position, and repaired once done. The last step is to rotate the back edge down to whatever ledger you have set up. If you don't have a ledger on that edge, it can slip down, and you'll pay h$ll getting your finger tips in between the edge and the wall to pick it back up.

Hope that explains it.
 

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hdavis said:
That's why it has to be tipped to install. Have it up on end with the skirt toward you, bottom of the skirt to the left. With everything off to the studs, angle the unit to line the skirt up with the front stud bay at the foot of the tub. Now start rotating it down into position at the foot of the tub. The skirt will hit the drywall on the other side of that wall - the drywall will have to be cut to rotate it fully into position, and repaired once done. The last step is to rotate the back edge down to whatever ledger you have set up. If you don't have a ledger on that edge, it can slip down, and you'll pay h$ll getting your finger tips in between the edge and the wall to pick it back up. Hope that explains it.
And that's what I was trying to explain. Lol. I used less words...
 

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And that's what I was trying to explain. Lol. I used less words...
It's tougher to understand if you haven't done it (or seen it done) before.

This would be a typical manufactured home around here. The short tub I refer to as a trailer tub, since that's where they really got used a lot, but they're good for any tight layout.
 

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If the objective is to install a new tub AND retile, I don't understand the reason for this thread. Rip it out. Much more cathartic instead of trying to put lipstick on a pig.

Edit: if you're talking about the drywall outside the tub area, yes, it looks like you need to cut a couple feet out from the floor to slide the tub in. Maybe both walls. Maybe remove the door casing, too. Then you're free and clear. Otherwise, no dice.
 

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Spencer said:
Sorry, I need to clarify. The reason for removing the tub is because it looks old but more importantly because the tile on the wall are falling off and failing. The surround needs replaced also. There is no point in tearing this much up in there and not replacing the floor with tile also, so the vanity will get removed. If there was no skirt on the tub I would think I could get it in there, but the square skirt is gonna cause the problems and it only makes sense that there would be studs right in line with the skirt.
and you'll have to tear out about half the drywall to get the tub in there. You're tearing up more than half the bathroom anyway, might as well give them a price for a complete gut and remodel. Replacing only a bathtub in a bathroom doesn't make a lot of sense, it would be a lot of demo and money put into it for just the tub. Another option is to spray an epoxy coat on the old tub to make it look new. But if the tile is falling off the wall, good chance those studs in the wall have water damage so the studs would need to be replaced. But you won't know that until you tear up the drywall and look.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
If the objective is to install a new tub AND retile, I don't understand the reason for this thread. Rip it out. Much more cathartic instead of trying to put lipstick on a pig.

Edit: if you're talking about the drywall outside the tub area, yes, it looks like you need to cut a couple feet out from the floor to slide the tub in. Maybe both walls. Maybe remove the door casing, too. Then you're free and clear. Otherwise, no dice.
The reason for the thread was because I was unsure that even if I tore out the drywall whether or not I would be able to maneuver the skirt of the tub into position being that it is square. Apparently others on here have done it with success it will just take some doing.

Hoping they'll just go with a complete tile shower.
 

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Spencer said:
The reason for the thread was because I was unsure that even if I tore out the drywall whether or not I would be able to maneuver the skirt of the tub into position being that it is square. Apparently others on here have done it with success it will just take some doing. Hoping they'll just go with a complete tile shower.
I would print out a detail of the tub you want with dimensions, then meet with your plumber on site to make sure he can get it in.
 

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You need to pull the old tub out enough that the front skirt will clear any studs--then tip it up so the skirt goes into an open stud bay----

you are right---a tub is wider than the opening when measured on a diagonal across the skirt---that extra length need to go into an open stud bay---
 

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Here's some irony - short tubs like that have fewer choices of styles, and many cost more than a 60".

I helped a friend who had one of these in a similar situation, except he had a 2 piece surround glued onto the wall, which he wanted to keep (this was a manufactured home). The very worst part was lifting the shower surround off of the wall enough to be able to get the tub in. I'd never do that for a customer, but this friend is a different story - no charge. Another friend, it might have been double, and a new wall set would have gone in.
 
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