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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What are the options on a problematic 1" joint leak when removal and re-thread would be a major pain?
 

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Structural Engineer
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If it were me, I'd re-do the pipe. We just did a long 4 inch main, and at test it dropped 6 psi over 24 hours. It took an additional 16 man hours to find it and repair the weld, but I walked away with a signed inspection sticker and total peace of mind. (But I also include time for testing in the estimate on large jobs to cover the Easter Egg hunt for leaks. And in general my labor rate formula includes 4% for testing.)
 

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well how did you fix it?

a very simple fix that 1 out of 10 times will work is simply to tighten it up. of course one side is loosing if one side stops and the other dosent start leaking your good. kind of a dirty trick sometimes your luckey
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You are correct. I went to some extended measure to get another turn on the joint and managed to get it sealed. The problem, as you may have guessed is that the installed location (in the floor joist space) didn't make the use of formidable wrenches very functional. The leak was due to a partially damaged thread. I disassembled the assembly, introduced some suitable thread compound and used bigger wrenches to get another turn on the joint.

Then I told the plumber to go buy a new set of dies for his 1" threader.
 

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Guy who makes things
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Tapered thread makes the seal, not the compound.

Keith
 

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Once you have identified the leak, the solution is usually just tighting the connection. In some cases, you should put pipe dope and/or pipe tape in place seal things - definately for "pipe" fittings, questionable for flare fittings. Always be careful tightening to make sure you don't bend any pipes in the process.
 
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