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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Gang -

Out here in Gotham City, I've pretty much just used all Steel.
If I'm working with wood, I'm generally using screws.

Picked up a Dewalt Cordless Framer.
For the odds' ends' around the house, I want to give wood more of a whirl...besides, it gave me a excuse to buy a new toy.

If I have to buy 1 box of nails, is it Okay to use Galvanized Ring Shank for Everything. I was leaning on this direction, as one box will serve me plenty for now. Or am I better off with vinyl coated brights for interior use, in which I will need to buy *2* boxes, one bright and one galvy....
 

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You can use the galv for indoors. Just costs more. You just bought a $500 "toy".
I don't think you are really worried about cost. If you think you will use it a lot, just buy both kinds of nails. They wont spoil.
 

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We only buy galvies. We use a lot of PT here and I don't want my guys getting off the ladder or where ever they are to go grab different nails when changing from pt to white wood.

I don't even want to see brights on site because I know someone will grab and use them somewhere where they shouldn't. For the $200 it might save me per job, it's not worth the hassle for us.
 

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Wow.... So for example if you were nailing joists to rimboard sitting on a foundation wall 300mm off the ground you would use stainless?

Just curious about how things are done on an island very far away from me!
yup ,doin a deck at the moment 400 from ground to bottom of joists stringer bolted to slab with stainless bolts joists on stainless hangers with stainless bracket nails pile to bearer stainless z nails ...expensive stuff
 

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Galvanized will be fine. Will cost a little more, but I can usually find Grip Rite (generic) for about $5 more per box.
I also usually only get galvanized. Something we went to a few years ago. Easier than switching nails or somebody getting mixed up.
I also only get galvanized finish nails and brads.
I don't get the ring shank though. Would require a special order. The galvanized have a coating on them. They are harder to pull than bright finish.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Having not use Ring Shanks....

I was leaning on Ring Shanks for the exterior usage requirements. How much or how little of a bear is it to nail flush. I know this really depends on the nailer as well. Not sure if I buy Ring Shanks, will I have buyers remourse if it doesn't seat flush on every nail I shoot
 

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Having not use Ring Shanks....

I was leaning on Ring Shanks for the exterior usage requirements. How much or how little of a bear is it to nail flush. I know this really depends on the nailer as well. Not sure if I buy Ring Shanks, will I have buyers remourse if it doesn't seat flush on every nail I shoot
If you were hjand nailing and bought galvi ring shanks and didn't need them, yes, you'd have buyer's remorse and probably a sore arm:whistling

If the question is whether you can hand set them flush if the nailer doesn't get them just right, it takes a pretty good whack - it it's in a knot, it takes a better whack...

I haven't used them in a nail gun, only hand nailed with them for decking boards.
 

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I use Galvanized ring shanks for everything, I have the 20v cordless framing nailer and it sets them perfectly. We don't switch out nails other than length either, too easy to mix up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Ended up picking up a box of 16 Gal Smooth and 8 Galv Ring.

Interested for my own wikipedia to compare/contrast how the ring shanks grip resistance compares to where I would normally just use a GRK screws. Moreso, I do see the benefits of the speed with nails....

Shear, etc, etc. I don't think I'm nailing anything YET where shear is a issue..
 
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