someone is feeding you a bunch of bull**** :laughing:I have an 01 2500 Dodge 4x4. Apparently, it's not a simple job pulling the rotors, as it was with my 92 Dakota 4x4. My brake shop has a machine to surface the rotors on the vehicle. They told me that the hub bearings, which have anti-lock brake sensors integrated with them, would have to be pulled with the rotors. I later had the hub bearings replaced, along with upper/lower ball joints and the trac-bar. The factory replacement hub bearings were over $350 each, so don't damage them during removal if you're going to attempt doing it yourself.:thumbsup:
Right On! :thumbsup: Rotors are cheap to replace and have your old ones turned for the next time. Cryo Slotted on my '04. CumminsForum.com has more info about these trucks than most will ever need to know and often there are get to gathers for owners to meet other owners and BS. Went to one yesterday at Hooter's in Omaha, good times!:w00t:someone is feeding you a bunch of bull**** :laughing:
You take off your wheels, take off your calipers and pads and slide off your rotors. 2000 and earlier non anti-lock systems were harder.... but not much.
an 01 is a piece o cake...they were just selling you on their stupid machine.
(i own an 01 cummins...if you look on cumminsforum.com there is a write up on how to put 03 front brakes on your 01-02 dodge. I did it and love the results.)
I feel your pain. I had an '03 and one of my U joints went bad. My nephew who is a mechanic spent the better part of the day to break it free. He finally got it and all was well but he told me when the other side goes bad don't bother asking him to replace it:laughing:Funny you should ask this. I have an 05 Dodge 4x4 Cummins.
You do not have to take the lock nut off. You will need to remove the calipers first and there might be some thin metal clips holding the rotor on the lug studs (these are not needed), take the rotors in and get em turned. The rotors should pop right off.
Now why is this funny? My truck has been in the shop for work in the front wheel area but what I need is new U joints. Sounds simple right. Well the mechanic called me yesterday to tell me that he cannot get the bearing hubs off. These are behind the rotors and are seized on. Not even with a 2 ton puller .
I feel your pain. I had an '03 and one of my U joints went bad. My nephew who is a mechanic spent the better part of the day to break it free. He finally got it and all was well but he told me when the other side goes bad don't bother asking him to replace it:laughing:
I believe the '02 has drum brakes in the rear? I had a '99 with drums in the rear and every brake job you had to replace the seals since the axle shafts have to come off with the drums. One bad seal and your brake job is ruined. The rear discs in the '03 were a lot nicer.You know, after replacing the front rotors, found out that the rear needed to be replaced also. Then I found a seal leak at the axel. And then???
Anyone want dodge that needs a little work.
You got off cheap for all that work. My U joint was $100. They asked me if I wanted one made in China ($50) or one in the US ($100). I figured the Chinese one might be a little more towards metric dimensions or not quite what it should be and sprang for the extra $50.OK, so to update, I finally got my rig back yesterday. Here is the damage:
Had to heat the bearing hub cherry WITH the 2 ton puller AND an air chisel to get the pass side off. Of course this toasted the hub assy AND melted the dust cover. The driver side came off with the puller and chisel but killed that hub and cover as well.
So, 2 new hub assys, 2 new dust covers, 2 new U joints (greasable now) and the bill is $1200. Actually not bad for the time he put in. Good thing this is my buddy and not the stealership.
All this for the lack of 2 .50 cent zerk fittings on the U joints. I swear they do this crap on purpose
Woodchuck, couldn't help but notice that as an ex Dodge tech, that's a Chevy in your avatar picture. I guess that speaks volumes:laughing:There is a trick for popping loose the wheel bearings in the front of these and i will try to explain it to you for next time. When the rotor is off loosen the bolts for the wheel bearing but do not remove them, also keep the large retaining nut on tight also. Put a large socket "3/4-1" between the ear of the u-joint and the axle housing, turn the knuckle until it holds the socket in place, then start the engine and turn the steering wheel. Sometimes this takes a couple tries but it will shove the wheel bearing assembly out of the knuckle. The remove the large retaining nut and the bolts for the wheel bearing. If you do this with the nut off you take a chance of seperating the bearing. Just one of the tricks to the trade from my years of wrenching on these trucks.