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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

Does anyone know if Front Door required by CODE to have Sill Pan / Door Pan

Thank you very much in advance!
 

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General Contractor
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Hello,

Does anyone know if Front Door required by CODE to have Sill Pan / Door Pan

Thank you very much in advance!
Introduce yourself and where you from and what you do...:thumbsup:
 

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topsail's trimcat
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it may be code depending on the region. i know most manufactuerers are now recommending it in the installation info
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I am from Austin TEXAS GC. I have seen door pans made from the sheet metal and they not quite very attractive looking before and after installation

Also I believe there is no such thing as CODE requirement to use them.

Thank you very much in advance!
 

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mindmapping it all!
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yes! it should be code. put some metal under that door before setting it!

read my sig!
 

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no..not necessarily..unless it's thermally broken it can cause more rot then an unprotected sub floor

..again follow the procedure outlined in the install instructions
 

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I am from Austin TEXAS GC. I have seen door pans made from the sheet metal and they not quite very attractive looking before and after installation

Also I believe there is no such thing as CODE requirement to use them.

Thank you very much in advance!
It doesn't have to be metal. Use flashing tape to make one. You aren't going to see it after installation anyways. Code enforced or not, doors shouldn't be installed without a pan flashing of some sort.
 

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Love me some Concrete
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As stated above, something should be installed...

You have to refer to manu. requirements in the install instructions, if you do not, you void the original warranty and then you are just relying on your own.:thumbsup:
 

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Kowboy
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I've had to remove two separate sliding doors and jambs and install uncured rubber EPDM as flashing to prevent water from saturating the carpet.

The inspector may or may not require it, but I promise your customers will.

Caulk is not flashing.

The first pic shows the rotted tack strip after the track and jamb have been removed.

#2 is the heaved sill pitching toward the inside.

#3 the sill is ground to pitch properly, exposing the aggregate, and is coated with contact cement.

#4 the uncured rubber EPDM "pan" is adhered to the sill.

#5 the track is back in place.

#6 Finished.
 

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Pro
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EricBrancard said:
It doesn't have to be metal. Use flashing tape to make one.
I've done this with the Protecto Wrap and that Dupont stuff the Home Doc, recommended.

Put something in, but as someone else stated, the slope under the door is critical.

- Scott
 

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Have you heard of the new green building systems?

called: HERS

1. to pass and receive a tax credit...loss of incoming air=for 24,000 cf space...you can give up about the size of a cambell's soup can

2. the crew puts a 20" fan in one exterior door....it fits air tite because of the canvass adapter than meters via a cfm resistance tells us how much air is leaking in.

3. so do provide a solid even level base for the door threshold to rest on...put down one face sticky rubber/pad
 
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