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I was ripping some timber with a straight edge as a guide and the thin blade must of overheated or or wanted to follow the grain of the timber as it wouldnt stay on the guide so I backed it out and tried a few times and the blade blued where the coating come off and it actually bent so much it I started getting shavings of aluminium from the saw guard. Normally I would have let it cool down and change out blades but I had rain clouds on the horizon and wanted to finish. Is the demo demon unsafe to use now? They cost about $35 here.
 

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They're the only brand blade I've had spit carbide and bend the plate. The carbide is to hard and chips easily. I've also had their router bits launch carbide across the shop.

Tom
My brother had picked up a ridgid circ saw blade a long time ago and it spit teeth out as well but I've never had an issue with the Diablo blades.
 

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I've had the issue with the Diablo. The Avanti blade would flake its coating and that stuff was as sharp as a razor blade.

I have not use the blades in 5-6 years, they may be better now, but I won't be using them.

Tom
 

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I have had the same experiences with Freud as Tom. Blades and bits spit carbide under normal use not abuse. I had the brazing fail on a new 3/4" round over bit under minimal load and go bouncing around the inside of a router shattering the dust shield and sending sharp plastic flying everywhere. This was a regular Freud bit not one of the Diablo bits.

I have had Diablo blades spit teeth at me while ripping 1x. I was out of state on a job and had a premium blade on the miter saw I had brought with. I had a considerable amount of MDF to cut and didn't want to dull that blade needlessly so I grabbed a Diablo. The blade was used for casing, base, some Azek and a bit of cedar. When the blade was taken in to the sharpener it came back with 12 marked teeth. I asked if he had replaced 12 teeth and he said that they were just chipped and he ran it around 2x. On a recent job a buddy of mine grabbed one of the 80 T Diablo blades because he was out of sharp blades and needed one. With 2 carpenters using the saw the blade was toast and ready for sharpening inside of two weeks and that was with regular cleaning cutting FJP 1x and poplar mouldings.

It has been my experience that even the Industrial line Freud offers has very mediocre edge retention and when I questioned my sharpener about it he also stated that it was due to the fact that their carbide is hard to the point of being brittle and therefore dulls faster and it is far more prone to chipping. He used to carry the Industrial line but won't anymore due to these problems. The size of the carbide on the Industrial blades is respectable even if it is brittle but the Diablo blades have more paint on them than carbide.

In addition the "stabilizer" patterns cut into the blades weaken the blade and make it more prone to warping and deflecting under load. I would guess that anyone who has used either the Diablo or Industrial blades has at one point or another seen red paint on either a cross or rip cut. There is a reason they are called "Diwobblo" blades. The industrial line is better due to plate thickness. Most true "industrial" blades I own or have used have copper plugged expansion slots.

I don't buy blades based on price alone. I am looking for number of sharpenings and edge retention between sharpening. The longer service life more than makes up for the higher price point. For regular work I use the Everlast MT1280D (only thin kerf blade I have ever liked) or an older Amana AGE 100 t. blade. For premium work I use either the FS Tool LM 6300 or SM 6300.
 

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I have had at least 5 out of 10 of my last Freud blades that the teeth chip. Mostly from cutting aluminum angle, even when using the blades made for non-ferrous. I have a Freud industrial blade I paid a little over $100 for 8 years ago and have sharpened 9 times, it's about shot but teeth are still all there

Just bought a Forrest chop master so I'm going to see how long this lasts compared to the diablos
 
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