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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a small 8' x 16' deck to build. It goes in a corner with limestone so no way to fasten it to the house.

What would you recommend as far as framing technique? Would this work? I don't really want the joist to run the other way...
 

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In your drawing there are no posts on the house side of the deck. If you can't attach it to the building you will need posts at this location.

The deck planks will run the long length of the framing. If you want the planks to run the short direction you'll need to rotate the post, beams and framing.

Other than that, it will work.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I don't understand, the deck is free-standing correct?

Floor joists going the short direction seems right.

So it looks right from here.

Did I miss something?

Andy.
Sorry. I should have been more specific. I've never had to do this before.

I wanted to make sure:

1) A dropped beam is standard closer to the house.

2) Post location. I didn't figure it would work well to dig very close to the house. So wanted to make sure keeping them back off the house a bit looked good.

The idea of a free standing deck in general was new to me. Just wanted to make sure this was SOP in this type of situation where you can't attach a ledger.

Here is a better drawing of how I think I'll do it. Sorry I left out the posts before.
 

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Spencer
It looks like there in very little height where the deck will go. I would be inclined to treat it as a wood patio and lay in P/T 6X6's set into the ground ( acting like the headers and also like spread footers if your local code will allow it ) and my joists over them. 2 X ? whatever height will make it work.
Bill T
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
That dropped beam should be nailed together, not split by the posts. That low to the ground you just need 4x4s under the beam down to the footing.

Although the best way to handle it in the back would be to bring the piers up to the height of the beam so you don't even need posts.
Yeah, I know splitting the beam is not the strongest way. It is either that or do like you said and bring concrete all the way up to the bottom of the dropped beam. It won't work to pour a pier at ground level and then stick a stub of a 4x on top of it. I don't have enough height off the ground.

The easy route would be to stick 4x4 in the ground and use sack crete but I don't want to do work that isn't going to last... This is no world class deck but I want it to last.
 

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Here's the pickle you're in. To have decent air circulation under the deck so it will dry out, you need at least 12" under those beams. To keep as much rain out from under it, you'd run the decking the short direction with a 1" in 8' slope (Not allowed some places). Doubled beam (2X nail lam) connections would be inset and through bolted into 6X6.

You can't do all that, so it's a design trade-off. Unless it's T&G decking or something like that, all decks get water under them, so I put getting it to dry out as a top concern. In this case, if it were built on beams, you'd turn it so the beams go the short way - much better air circulation especially behind the beam close to the house. Even better is not using a lower level of carrying beams at all, but if the connectors fail, that's it.

Use post caps to tie your 2Xs to the 4X4 posts:

http://www.strongtie.com/ftp/fliers/DIY-DECKPATIO08.pdf
 

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Spencer

You didn't mention if there was a high concrete foundation wall underneath the wall stone.

If there is, I still prefer a free standing deck. The beam in the rear could remain (once it is installed correctly) and I would add one in the front as well.

Depending on the spacing of your joist and the size of your decking materials, you could run the deck surface boards on a diagonal.

Bob
 

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Check with the codes in your area. I, do believe, not sure, But a "inner beam" must have a foundation at least 5' from the house foundation. That is what is needed here in my area at the moment! Some Boro's/Townships/Towns, are different than others!
 

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Check with the codes in your area. I, do believe, not sure, But a "inner beam" must have a foundation at least 5' from the house foundation. That is what is needed here in my area at the moment! Some Boro's/Townships/Towns, are different than others!
We use 8' as a rule of thumb or we need to set the footing at least as deep as the existing houses footing.

I think everyone here already knows my solution!
 

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Dan, a reply to you.

Why go 8' as a rule of thumb, when 5' is all that is needed? That leaves more floating in the air, more over-hang for ?

And as far as the thought of going as deep/or more than the house foundation/footing that will not work in my area! The code officer don't and will not give a good flying [email protected]^# about that thought! They say 5' and that IS what they go by! They go by the book weather correct or not to do, in practice! ( I agree with you BUT they don't ) They WILL NOT ALLOW IT! Then the fun begins with them, they have ya by the balls at this moment. And I am not sure what your solution is?
 

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Dan, a reply to you.

Why go 8' as a rule of thumb, when 5' is all that is needed? That leaves more floating in the air, more over-hang for ?

And as far as the thought of going as deep/or more than the house foundation/footing that will not work in my area! The code officer don't and will not give a good flying [email protected]^# about that thought! They say 5' and that IS what they go by! They go by the book weather correct or not to do, in practice! ( I agree with you BUT they don't ) They WILL NOT ALLOW IT! Then the fun begins with them, they have ya by the balls at this moment. And I am not sure what your solution is?
More hanging in the air?

We go 8' from the house because I do not believe that 5' is enough to guarantee undisturbed soil. The building code is a minimum.

Our code requires going as deep as the house footing if within 5'. It's not a problem to go that deep with helical so IDC how close or far we are, we don't have to deal with it.
 

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Yeah, I know splitting the beam is not the strongest way. It is either that or do like you said and bring concrete all the way up to the bottom of the dropped beam. It won't work to pour a pier at ground level and then stick a stub of a 4x on top of it. I don't have enough height off the ground.

The easy route would be to stick 4x4 in the ground and use sack crete but I don't want to do work that isn't going to last... This is no world class deck but I want it to last.
Set the beam in a post bracket bolted to the concrete pier. I'll post a picture latter.

Tom
 

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I built a free standing deck; 16' x 25'.
I used 6" x 6" posts in 24", holes, placed in concrete 42" in the ground. There were lots of posts. The deck had another, lower level, 17' x 25'

The deck was and is rock solid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I built a free standing deck; 16' x 25'.
I used 6" x 6" posts in 24", holes, placed in concrete 42" in the ground. There were lots of posts. The deck had another, lower level, 17' x 25'

The deck was and is rock solid.
I would feel comfortable going 6x6 instead of 4x4. I like that idea.
 

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The added cost is minimal. You never know what the deck has planned in the future: could be a dance party out there one day. You don't wanna be on the news, regardless of its height.

The deck I built was about five feet at its highest point. I know there were a lot of posts. I remember I used a water level, wish I had a laser back then. The water level worked great tho.
 
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