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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm familiar with standard wood-deck construction(PT,Cedar,etc),but am building my first MM deck using grooved 1"x 6" TimberTech,AZEK (or Fiberon):

I don't want to use a fascia that covers the cut or grooved edge
so I will have to use a "bread-board"(1 or 2 board picture frame) edge around the perimeter of the deck as well as the stair treads to cover the grooved edges.

Are there any DO's DONTS or TIPS when fastening/covering the outer edge detail?

What necessary structural framing techniques underneath do you guys reco ?Double up joists,lay flat 2x material?

Any other insight is welcome!

Love this site and Thanks;)
 

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Timbertech has all the specs for fastening depending on the system you are using. On their web page under installation help. They call it an Accent, which I think is what you're referring to when you say bread board.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Timbertech has all the specs for fastening depending on the system you are using. On their web page under installation help. They call it an Accent, which I think is what you're referring to when you say bread board.
Hi Kenn

Thanks for the reply.Obviously reading *help guides* from any manufacturer might help someone w/o any building experience.Buts its like reading an IKEA assembly manual though....time consuming and basically useless.

I was hoping/asking the Pros on here for actual helpful hands-on info

Ferd
 

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we like to frame on the flat for the picture where the ends butt,seems to hold up better than framing with short cats
remember your expansion,iv'e seen the picture board and framing pushed out of position because of it

sometimes with long pieces it's better to pocket screw the inside picture to the framing than it is to use a clip at the board end
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
we like to frame on the flat for the picture where the ends butt,seems to hold up better than framing with short cats
remember your expansion,iv'e seen the picture board and framing pushed out of position because of it

sometimes with long pieces it's better to pocket screw the inside picture to the framing than it is to use a clip at the board end
Thats what I was looking for TOM.....and a great PIC to explain my questions:

* totally agree about framing flat 2x materiel on intersections where warranted

* with regard to the corner miters........leave them dry,PVC glue,pocket screw them,...biscuits?

* as far as expansion...do you leave a gap(on the perpendicular boards) equal to the fastener spacing on the decking? Do weather changes play a concern?Do you still use the fasteners?

Thanks so much,
Ferd :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
I like double borders to match the stair treads[/QUOT

Tom M....sweet pics/job!The double borders really compliment the deck/stairs

Its hard to see the stringers,but are they PT 2"x12" and covered with AZEK?And I assume the treads are the same 1"x 6" decking?

Ferd:thumbsup:
 

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I like double borders to match the stair treads[/QUOT

Tom M....sweet pics/job!

Its hard to see the stringers,but are they PT 2"x12" and covered with AZEK?And I assume the treads are the same 1"x 6" decking?

Ferd:thumbsup:
Thank you, yes PT 2X12 WITH 1X12 Skirts or on this one double 1x6 skirt. Fiberon 1x6 treads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thank you, yes PT 2X12 WITH 1X12 Skirts or on this one double 1x6 skirt. Fiberon 1x6 treads.
Damn.......thats a *sick* looking job Tom M.:thumbsup:

I actually love the 2x(1"x6") look,and assume besides the great appearance,the chance of warping/movement over time is diminished ?

Last question.(LOL)How much of a GAP do you leave at the house edge,picture frame,bread board edges as well as other intersections.

Is it consistent with the fastener width?

Once Again
Thank You
Ferd
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Its really amazing how the little things make a basic build go from a garbage DYI Home Depot Special.... to a truly professional finished job

Bread Boarding,simple reveals, dimension and depth changes,(and the obvious plumb,level and square)etc

Ferd
 

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Yes I keep it consistant at about 3/16". That job was the only job I ever did with composite and butt joints. I added scab blocks and spacers to allow for drainage. It was a ***** to keep the spaces consistant. By 11:30 in the AM the sun was pounding and the gaps closed right up.
 

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space the ends according to the board temp and length..see thats the issue why you really don't want to use a clip at the end of a board to secure the inside picture board when the decking that butt it is long
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
space the ends according to the board temp and length..see thats the issue why you really don't want to use a clip at the end of a board to secure the inside picture board when the decking that butt it is long
Hi Tom S

Dont mind me....but not sure what you mean by temp?

I am assuming you mean NOT to use the clip at the end boards?Are you referring to the picture frame miters?

Ferd
 

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sorry if i'm not clear

the temperature and length of the board dictates it's spacing at the length at the time of install,3/16'' is the nominal gap we use at say 70 degrees,but it also depends on a boards length as they don't expand as much

using a grooved board on the inside picture it needs to be secured at the edge that butts the decking ends,often a slot is cut at the end to receive the clip but that limits expansion of that particular deck board

on a long board the expansion is great enough to pop the screw/scrail out of the framing or actually push the whole picture framing itself
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
sorry if i'm not clear

the temperature and length of the board dictates it's spacing at the length at the time of install,3/16'' is the nominal gap we use at say 70 degrees,but it also depends on a boards length as they don't expand as much

using a grooved board on the inside picture it needs to be secured at the edge that butts the decking ends,often a slot is cut at the end to receive the clip but that limits expansion of that particular deck board

on a long board the expansion is great enough to pop the screw/scrail out of the framing or actually push the whole picture framing itself
So installing grooved board decking in the Las Vegas heat(obv an wild exaggeration) compared to a cold North East install is a critical difference ?

I am in N.Y and have always worried about footing depth,expansion issues,etc...but am surprised that the primary MM dealers(TREX,AZEK,TimberTech) dont address this issue?

Ferd
 

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the pict frame is what really finishes it all off. Most customers don't even know what it is until it's done and they say wow what a nice detail. In composite and ipe it's standard practice on our jobs. usually dbl but singles work too. :thumbsup:
 
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