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Framing second floor

5750 Views 14 Replies 15 Participants Last post by  RobertCDF
I want to build a 30x60 garage with a second floor but after learning how much the engineered lumber is to do it I need alternatives. Would steel I beams and conventional lumber be cheaper. I want to clear span it and was thinking steel I's every 12 feet might be cheaper.
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Look into floor trusses. Be prepared for bouncy floors though no matter what you use. Have them design in a high ratio like L/600 or more if you want to avoid excessive deflection.
I think you are going to spend a lot of money to have a poorly performing floor.

Is the removal of a few posts really worth it? What are you doing in the shop that will not tolerate a row of posts down the center?
http://www.ilevel.com/literature/TJ-4000.pdf

Page 4. save up till you can go with the correct product, or accept a flush header with posts. Tji 16'' oc will get you 29'6'', GMOD
I joists are the most cost effective solution.
i agree with an ijoist
If you do not need the upstairs full size
you could have a floor built into your roof trusses?
The trusses would would be expensive,
but you would save a chunk money in some other areas
what you save on material, you may spend on labor for alternatives. I-Joist is excellent and seems to be best way, but it still costs .
I'm seeing 36'-1" max span for TJI's, 560 16" @ 12" O.C. with 40 psf live load. What type of engineered lumber are you talking about that is too expensive?
What are you doing in the shop that will not tolerate a row of posts down the center?
ahhhh, EVERYTHING:laughing::laughing: Imagine if you could you had your shop/garage and 15' into it all the way across was a row of posts...how practical for opening truck doors would it be, how practical for building something inside would it be? Not at all, unless you were going to rent the space out for go-kart slamon courses:laughing:
I'd look into steel on 15' centers for carriers and either 2x10 or 2x12 joists, depending on your intentions for the upper level. I believe you may save money over using I-joists and you can use the steel I beams as gantrys to offload material and shift it side to side.
I'd look into steel on 15' centers for carriers and either 2x10 or 2x12 joists, depending on your intentions for the upper level. I believe you may save money over using I-joists and you can use the steel I beams as gantrys to offload material and shift it side to side.
Gantry? This river don't go to Gantry.

I'll see you boys in hell.













just reminded me of a movie is all.:whistling
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I just priced the floor framing for a 24x30 garage at my house and a steel beam with 2x10's was 1/2 as much as I joists. The steel beam was only 600 bucks drilled and delivered
Light gauge steel joists, 12" or 14" deep by 14 or 12 ga, will get you the span without intermediate supports on 12 or 16" centers. Price in the $2.5-3.5 /lf range.

Dietrich & Marinoware are two that come to mind. There are many others. check with a drywall supplier as an alternative. They can special order form the same guys who form CTL studs.
Light gauge steel joists, 12" or 14" deep by 14 or 12 ga, will get you the span without intermediate supports on 12 or 16" centers. Price in the $2.5-3.5 /lf range.

Dietrich & Marinoware are two that come to mind. There are many others. check with a drywall supplier as an alternative. They can special order form the same guys who form CTL studs.
Steel is always a good choice but more blocking will be needed. Stay away from 12 ga as it usually costs quite a bit more than 14 ga. So if you can get 14 ga 14" should work well for you.

Cemco is another good steel stud manufacture.
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