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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can someone tell me how embeded the pipes are in a radiant floor usually?. When attaching a bottom plate to the concrete i usually use my 3" ramset nails. Do I run the risk of going to deep?

What options do I have?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I wasn't sure if I was going to put the gap at the top so I wanted to pre build the wall and then ramset it into place.

Also I was planning on putting a sill gasket under the bottom plate, I will have to skip it if im going to use PL
 

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I don't think there's any way to tell how deep they are unless you know the guy that put them in. I remember working on a condo with radiant floor heating and I was told the pipes were buried one inch. So any underlayment had to be glued down, not nailed or screwed.

Are you attaching partition walls? Do the walls all have something else they can nail to? If so, glue will probably be enough. But if you have to use nails, I would hire someone who installs those radiant floors to come out and see if he can locate them for you so you can miss them. Btw, I've always used 2 1/2" ramset nails for attaching a bottom plate to concrete, they shoot in a lot easier and seem to hold fine.
 

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I personally would get in contact with the radiant floor guy, if these are exterior bearing walls I would rather install the sill gasket and nail (I'm assuming they're not because typically you'd have to have embedded anchors in the concrete) and I would assume that they left the piping far enough away from the exterior edges, but again I would double check. For interior non-load bearing, I agree with the rest, and just use PL to glue it down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well I wanted to put a sill gasket under the interior wall bottom plates so the wood doesn't contact the cement, but then I wouldn't be able to glue property...

I'll try and hunt down the guy who did the floors.
 

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Pro
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radiant tubing is best with minimal coverage on it. less crap on top = less crap to heat.

use 2" cut nails, or pins if you like them better. 1/2" penetration is enough to keep the shoe in place, and you're guaranteed not to hit a line.

gluing plates down sounds like fun though *yawn*
 

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topsail's trimcat
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if we know theirs radiant going in we put down overpour plates first for all the walls meaning one plate down the sheathing. the plumber can then run his pipes in each room and the concrete guys can do their pour. we then come back in and nail down to the overpour plates.

if gluing we cut a every 3rd stud a little longer to ensure a good snug fit for the glue to grab the shoe
 

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We have sprayed the floor with water with the thermo cranked for a couple hours and it will show you exactly where the pipes are.
 

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clinkard, I never even thought of that. Simple but effective! :thumbsup:
 

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Zimmermann
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Typically on all the radiant floors I've had to deal with the tubing did not go out to the exterior walls.
I still didnt tapcon or ramest the exterior wall plates but usually the tubing is anywhere from 6"-12" in from exterior walls.
Youre main worry would be in the field of the rooms / party walls.
 

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Custom Builder
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We frame everything up then the tubing guys come tube it and then the gypcrete guys come pour it. We put 2x2 down whereever theres hard wood. This means no worries on broken pipes beat up gyp. Also allows us to put backing down everywhere for cabniets carpet tack strip floor plugs or anything else.
 
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