Are there collar ties/ceiling joists? Need some pics or more info to provide any useful solutions.

 

It should be fine if the rafter is sitting fully on the top plate. If you are concerned add a hurricane tie or timberlock screw

 

Agree with the Timberlock, very easy.

But also, buildings are shockingly forgiving. Cabin has probably been there for a long time- as peculiar as the construction is, it's working. Was probably a homeowner build, they do weird ****. I live in one, there are no closets, among other oddities- both architectural and structural.

Edit:
Another option is to add a ledger, which would involve some trim too. Would only do that if there were an obvious failure.

 

The code want rafters to have full bearing at the plate. That was achieved. No harm no foul.

Birds mouth on rafters simply save a ton of time beveling plates.

 

Hey all,

Thanks for the advice and kind words. I've never seen something like that before and it kind of threw me for a curve. My main concern was that due to the slight degree of the studs (14 degrees or so since its a 3:12) that with a heavy snow load it would eventually fail and since I'm the last contractor on the job it would fall on me.
The house has def been under heavy snow loads and all sorts of stuff so she is sturdy. She is just a good friend of a friend of mine and I wanna do her right I just can't eat the time/cost to basically redo the entire exterior to make the studs flat.

Im trying to upload a photo but for some odd reason it won't allow me to and it just sits on upload.

 

It finally uploaded the picture. So as you can see each and every stud has a 14 degree cut to the top so that the plate is sloped to the roof pitched they desired. I've never seen this. I've seen beveled top plates before but never the actual stud cut to the degree lol

 

I’m guessing from your description that it’s a shed roof? In that case I wouldn’t worry too much about snow load wanting to spread the walls. As long as the rafters are securely fastened to the top plate it should be fine.

 

Ah I forgot to mention it is a shed roof. Its a 3:12 pitch for sure which I believe is 14 degrees and some change.

 

Installing some strapping from plate to stud would help tie them together, if I’m understanding your concern correctly. Like everyone else has said, this probably isn’t a huge problem, but it’d add a little more strength if you’re concerned about it.

 

Well my concern is the angle of the stud and the weight pushing down onto that stud. If my memory serves me correct the reason why we cut studs flat is so that when a load is on the roof the force is driving down into the foundation and the rest of the framing. With those angle cuts, the load is going to not be forced down but inward if you get what I am saying.

 

Yeah that's not a half bad idea. Guess if I strap it it would still act as 1 cause of the metal connections. I know I'm doing it overkill cause its been up for so long but I try my best to do right by my clients and that seems like a easy enough fix.

 

I agree with all the comments here in that you are stressing a little too much over it, tearing it up and redoing it would be overkill. When you remodel a house, it's expected the existing structure won't be up to your current standards. But you can't walk into every remodel, start demolitioning and then say o.k we need to rebuild this, this, and this. When none of those things were taken into account on your original bid. If you approach every remodel that way, you will go broke real quick. You'll find all kinds of out of whack things in a frame when you start doing your demo; undersized headers, or no headers, improperly nailed sheer walls, floor joists that were nailed together like farmer Joe and have a six inch dip in the floor. I see things like this all the time.

These things should be taken care of and understood by your client when you hand over your contract and discuss the scope of work. You are not going to tear up the whole house and rebuild it. You're there to do a specific list of tasks and everything else is as is, or you can say grandfathered. If you're worried about liability, there are ways to write up allowances in your contract. As in specifying what it will take if framing upgrades are needed once the drywall it torn off, since you can't yet see what's behind it.

But you will still run into things where you just have to eat the cost unfortunately. I did a remodel and I didn't notice their ceiling fan was improperly installed, they had just a basic j-box in there and not one that was designed for a fan. So I went ahead and fixed it and just ate the expense. That's why you have to charge a healthy markup on remodels because these things will happen. So yeah, just nail some hurricane ties on those rafters, if it's permitted then ask your inspector if it will be o.k. More than likely the inspector would say it's fine because it's not a part of the house that you're really altering, so he would just let you leave what's already there.

 

I agree with all the comments here in that you are stressing a little too much over it, tearing it up and redoing it would be overkill. When you remodel a house, it's expected the existing structure won't be up to your current standards. But you can't walk into every remodel, start demolitioning and then say o.k we need to rebuild this, this, and this. When none of those things were taken into account on your original bid. If you approach every remodel that way, you will go broke real quick. You'll find all kinds of out of whack things in a frame when you start doing your demo; undersized headers, or no headers, improperly nailed sheer walls, floor joists that were nailed together like farmer Joe and have a six inch dip in the floor. I see things like this all the time.

These things should be taken care of and understood by your client when you hand over your contract and discuss the scope of work. You are not going to tear up the whole house and rebuild it. You're there to do a specific list of tasks and everything else is as is, or you can say grandfathered. If you're worried about liability, there are ways to write up allowances in your contract. As in specifying what it will take if framing upgrades are needed once the drywall it torn off, since you can't yet see what's behind it.

But you will still run into things where you just have to eat the cost unfortunately. I did a remodel and I didn't notice their ceiling fan was improperly installed, they had just a basic j-box in there and not one that was designed for a fan. So I went ahead and fixed it and just ate the expense. That's why you have to charge a healthy markup on remodels because these things will happen. So yeah, just nail some hurricane ties on those rafters, if it's permitted then ask your inspector if it will be o.k. More than likely the inspector would say it's fine because it's not a part of the house that you're really altering, so he would just let you leave what's already there.

O I am very keen on making sure that all my contracts are very clear with what my Scope of work is and I don't mess around when it comes to that kind of stuff. Typically anytime I do find something that is wrong and needs to be fixed I will approach the homeowner, tell them what is happening, and send them another quote for that specific task. My motto typically is if it takes 5-10 minutes to resolve a issue I see and barely costs me anything. I do it. If I know its a much larger job thats when we have to do another set up for what needs to be resolved.

The other guy came up with a pretty idea and I came up with another solution I am going to piggy back off of that I think will work. The only reason I am going a little extra on this job is the client is a really good friend of mine and I gotta do her right

where I live there are no framing inspections or any permits required to do any scale of remodel outside of city limits. I live in the mountains of Idaho where pretty much anything goes outside of plumbing/electrical/septic

 

Quality stucco from 1913 can stand as an eggshell in a “seismic” zone for years past 2024. A slanted plate can do its job. Least under 15 degrees . Just don’t go crazy blowing framing with a million ticos. Just do what you think is right with kiss method in mind.

 

Oh I thought this was a A frame. If your worried use https://www.amazon.com/Simpson-Stro...simpson+truss+screws&qid=1731934298&sprefix=simpson+truss+screws,aps,101&sr=8-4 from plates into rafters and metal perf strap from plates to studs https://www.amazon.com/Galvanized-P...tal+wall+straps&qid=1731934404&sprefix=simpson+metal+wall+straps,aps,105&sr=8-3.

Are there interior walls to keep the 60ft walls from bowing?

 

Oh I thought this was a A frame. If your worried use Amazon.com from plates into rafters and metal perf strap from plates to studs Amazon.com.

Are there interior walls to keep the 60ft walls from bowing?

Yeah there are walls at each end for the bedrooms/bathrooms.

I think I got a plan of attack.

 

It's a shed roof, walls spreading is a non starter. The only difference is conventional birds mouth construction doesn't have the rafter-top plate-stud connections in shear.

Nailed connections fail gracefully in shear, they start pulling apart long before failing. I see no evidence of that.

 

Yeah I don't see any problems that have arisen from this strange technique so it must be working.
I just never seen it before and it blew my mind a bit lol

and what do you mean wall spread is not a problem? I get the mechanics behind a shed roof but curious. If you can expand on that, that would be great.

 

Wall spreading apart in a shed roof can't happen as long as the connections are O.k. The rafters keep the tops of the walls spaced correctly.

 

makes total sense.

 

So what are you guys doing on a mono slope roof framed with I-joist and an intermediate beam at center span? Your not going to birdsmouth and block in 3 locations on each rafter are you? Just wondering.

 

The few times I've done that detail yes. Shed roof with beam under in the middle would get 3. I did a roof with TJI's and cut a level cut on the bottom and a rip at the top per GP instructions. This detail works up to a 3 pitch, at least when we did the job.

 

These work wonders. Have used them several times on I Joist mono slope roof systems.

Have also ordered beveled top plates to match the slope from BFS or ran them off on my resaw.

Simpson VPA2 1-1/2" Joist Variable Pitch Connector, Galvanized

The VPA may be sloped in the field, offering a versatile solution for attaching rafters to the top plate. It will adjust to accommodate slopes between 3:12 and 12:12, making it a complement to the versatile LSSR and LSSJ. This connector eliminates the need for notched rafters, beveled top plates...

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