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Framing for Sound Proofing

15K views 48 replies 25 participants last post by  Leo G  
#1 ·
Putting up a wall, that separates a large open space in a basement on slab.

One side will be a bedroom and to the other, a movie room with great sound. Even when you want to sleep.

For the bedroom, am planning on a walk-in closet that will run majority of the length to act as a sound block. The wall will have a typical pre-hung, hollow core door set off to an end that matches a bathroom door nearby.

- Would 2 x 6 wall framing and deeper insulation really deaden the sound more than 2 x 4?

- Little concerned about setting the pre-hung unit in 2 x 6 studs ... any ideas?
 
#6 ·
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think double wall, staggered studs, rockwool, drywall on hat channel just to name a few things.

its not just the wall to think about, floor & ceiling also.
Rockwool looks like decent stuff. Figured on insulating the ceiling.

Sounds like you might be a homeowner working on your own basement. Interior doors are hung in 2x6 walls all the time.

A double wall will do more for sound than a 2x6 wall. Need to break the sound from vibrating through the studs
A homeowner? Not exactly but obviously not a framer either. Helping with someone's basement.

Asking to avoid using ripped extenders (jamb legs). Which I've seen and don't really care for.

Sounds like you need a solid core door, and sound proof drywall then just build a regular 2/4 wall.

Insulation does not sound proof walls but it does work well to insulate.
Done lots of drywall but never 'soundproof'. Could you recommend?

Why would you have the movies going while you are sleeping?
Someone with dementia, turning up the sound.
 
#13 ·
Double wall – staggered studs… Auralex channel… Green Glue… Isolate the ductwork… Sealed solid core door… sound insulation… decouple as much as possible… the list goes on and on…
 
#16 ·
the Acoustiblok is pretty cool. saw a display at IBC where they had a bluetooth speaker inside a small enclosure made of this material and you could barely hear it. lifted the enclosure and it was very loud. Similar to the sound deadening material used in car audio but thicker...and expensive.

don't forget the ceiling area-if it's a drop, sound will travel-if not, sound would go through the ceiling to the ground floor.

re: insulating the closet outside wall-doesn't make any sense because the closet doors (bifold) will likely not attenuate the sound much. best best is attacking the partition wall and use foam for penetrations. attention to placement of the sub, as low frequencies travel further. may also get sound travel through the supply duct if not careful. flex duct would like be the best solution but register placement is the key. two supply registers on one solid duct is the kind of design that may transmit sound.
 
#17 · (Edited)
We are building an office building for our company right now. We did this between the three offices, with batts in each side. 5/8 rock, solid core doors. Quite effective and cheap

Do it on master suites etc... on our custom homes as well

At my personal home, I did 5/8 rock on the whole thing, insulated all interior walls, rock wool in utility room. My personal study has an exterior door seal on the door separating it from the rest of the house.... I almost put a threshold, my kids are loud AF lol
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#18 ·
If your real worried about sound you can run a double pony wall above the ceiling to the roof deck. Never needed to do it but it would work well, I have done done double metal stud walls to the concrete deck and insulated with double rock for interview rooms at the AGs in the Clements Buolding in down town austin, same thing for the supreme court confrence rooms and the justices offices in the Supreme Court building of the Captiol Complex.
 
#20 · (Edited)
Sound Clips, hat channel, double 5/8 type x with GG between them. Keep drywall back from corners and fill corner with sound caulk. HVAC gets tricky. At a minimum change any ridgid ducting to insulated flex duct but that is still a weak point. Exterior door or interior with weatherstripping and an auto drop bottom seal.
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#24 ·
Seal the room and then put a complete vacuum in it. As we all know sound can't travel in a vacuum. And the people in the room would die from no air. So they really won't hear anything. :laughing:

5/8" drywall, staggered studs with cellulose insulation, solid core doors. Have curtains on the theater side of the wall to start the deadening before it even hits the wall.
 
#28 ·
Acoustic tile serves a purpose.........just sucks to repair it if needed.

I have used homasote backing and neoprene gaskets between plates and floor/ceiling.

Another product is "Quiet rock" This I have not tried out so I can verify its claims but in any application mentioned insulation is going to help
 
#33 ·
All of the above ideas are good.

I don't know if anyone mentioned a seal at the bottom of the door. When you shut the door, the seal drops down.

One thing I know for sure. No matter what, people will think there is too much sound coming through. I've done everything from walls to rooms to confessionals. No matter what, someone thinks it should be better.
They also never want to spend the money, to do the best possible.

FYI. A door for a sound proof room, cost about $3,500. Think sound studio quality.
 
#37 · (Edited)
Conventional Dry wall, sprayed with very low growth "foam" , think undercoating / rubber dampening layer...On "back side'i

Install a "Noise door" over regular door again coat both with lead/ rubber sound deadening products, and a thermal/ sound SPLIT Jamb....

buy a Bose active noise reducer.......

old school lay "nogging" brick and CMUs between studs with coarse concrete fill or perlite.

Saw the studs in the walk-in closet long ways in the center, interrupt the cut at half high with off set slit...

lay out the party wall out of square or(make a couple of "random offsets" to reduce the room's resonance..) to the other 3 walls of the theater room. Saw cut deep the floor slab at BOTH closet wall line.
just add an "extra" MASONRY sand filled wall near the closet?

Get an sound engineer to analysis the floors and walls to make their resonant frequencies sub-sonic or super sonic....