[UpNorth]

A shingled house will get battered corners and pilasters, an expensive set of details. Wall framing is conventional 2x6, all sheathed, before the application of the boosted sections.

As can be seen in the pic, the bottom edges of the boosts are held up off of finished grade, and no foundation is underneath. They are just "pasted" on the walls, somehow. The loading is minimal . . . a little light framing, sheathing, cedar shingles . . . that's it. Consider what 42" tall wall cabinets weigh, fully loaded with tableware, hanging on a kitchen wall with a few screws.

How would you propose these be built and hung?

 

[Kent Whitten]

Studs, glue, screws, and plywood. Have a backing 2x on the original wall for this to attach to. Make sure to cap the bottom so critters don't make a home there.

Nothing out of the ordinary here.

 

[Joe Carola]

A shingled house will get battered corners and pilasters, an expensive set of details. Wall framing is conventional 2x6, all sheathed, before the application of the boosted sections.

As can be seen in the pic, the bottom edges of the boosts are held up off of finished grade, and no foundation is underneath. They are just "pasted" on the walls, somehow. The loading is minimal . . . a little light framing, sheathing, cedar shingles . . . that's it. Consider what 42" tall wall cabinets weigh, fully loaded with tableware, hanging on a kitchen wall with a few screws.

How would you propose these be built and hung?

What is the projection top and bottom and the width and height?

 

[UpNorth]

Thanks for the responses thus far. I know there are various ways to build this, and that it ain't rocket science. Just looking for something creative, that is easy and light, and uses as few materials as possible.

Since it will be shingled, was thinking of a light frame and skip sheathing with 1x3 furring.

Here is a section with dimensions.

 

[Kent Whitten]

You need the ply to hold it up though with no base. I agree with the skip sheathing, but there's no shear value to it. The only way I know of to get it light is to use all ply.

You basically just start with a stud on the wall screwed into the backer on the inside. Apply ply from there. Some numbers to crunch, but from the sounds of it, you will be supplying those. I don't really see any need for any fancy creative stuff. It's just a hollow dead space.