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Framing a window opening

7.6K views 13 replies 9 participants last post by  JumboJack  
#1 ·
When I frame a window opening I have a king stud on both sides and then I nail on a lower cripple or trimmer , then leave a gap in the trimmer stud for the window sill then add another cripple or trimmer stud up the the underside of the lintel. Is this how everyone does it?
I have also seen a king stud, then a trimmer from the lintel to the bottom plate, then the sill is nailed to the trimmer, then another trimmer underneath the sill.
My method uses two studs per side while the other method uses 2.5. I also pre assemble all of my window openings like this before I drop them onto the deck for assembly of the entire wall.

Any thoughts?
 
#2 ·
Depends on where your from. I can't split the trimmer/jack stud like you do because it wont pass inspection. I run the jack from the bottom of the header down to the shoe and then nail a window jack up against that and the sills go on top. My way,you are using a extra window jack that way.
 
#7 ·
What Joe said, nice drawing by the way. We don't use a double sill like your drawing but, we are not allowed to use a split trimmer. It allows for to much compression I'm told.
 
#9 · (Edited)
Here's how I framed a window type in an apartment - this is a detail I draw and laminate to pass out at the job to give the men a picture that is dimensioned so they build it right and quick.

http://www.wallmaxx.com/DETAIL%20-%20WALL%20-%20SECTION%208.pdf

Our cripple studs MUST be continuous from header to bottom plate. I guess so that it doesn't introduce a potential hinge at the window sill. Who knows.

Any header over 5' has the cripples doubled. Over 8' - tripled. In Houston we called the entire king and cripple combination - a trimmer. In middle Tennessee they call it a liner. In the Pacific NW, they have solid lumber headers that are as big as 5 1/2" by 11 1/2" by up to 16'. Down south, we would nail 2 by material together with 1/2" ply sandwiched as a flitch plate. In BC canada, they just double the 2 by's and flush them to the outside (insulators fill the void on the inside).

PS - Canadian common studs are 92 1/4" and 104 1/4" - - That's 3/8" less that similar US studs. (hmmmm what are they doing with all those 3/8" (minus blade kerf) pieces?)
 
#11 ·
PS - Canadian common studs are 92 1/4" and 104 1/4" - - That's 3/8" less that similar US studs. (hmmmm what are they doing with all those 3/8" (minus blade kerf) pieces?)

Checked with the building inspector today about the split trimmer and he flat out said NO WAY would he pass it. In the Alberta Building Code it states that the trimmer has to be continuous to the bottom plate of the wall from the underside of the header. No reason why, that's just the way it is. Interesting to know that it is done in several different ways and that no one has EVER had a wall fall apart no matter what method they have used. At least as far as I know.

By the way, the studs in Alberta are 92-5/8 and 104-5/8. Maybe in BC different though. I though all you guys in the US used Canadian softwood all the time! :thumbsup:
 
#10 ·
Two things different than what wallmax has in his pdf. The underside of the 4x10 has the 2x6 inside of the opening. I had the 2x6 run to the king stud.

Also, the trimmer would go to the underside of the header without breaking it at the sill. But I went one step further.

You say we're using more lumber. If you leave out the one that would be nailed to the side of the trimmer, then it's not. Got to do it right though because it makes a weak joint. It depends on how you nail your sills. I always made a good connection from the top of the sill by toenailing at least 3 there, then one on the face, and after the wall was lifted, one on the inside face.

Most of the time, if you have questionable people working for you, they would f this up all the time. Sill would be crowned, etc.