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Hey guys, I am new to the commercial side, mostly residential and trim work for the past 4 years. I was approached by a family member to build out his office. I was curious how to go about framing a wall inside an office with a drop ceiling, and preferable not harming the ceiling tiles or tracks so in the even the wall needs to be removed nothing needs replacing. I would use the aluminum studs and tracks, but how does it get anchored to the ceiling?


Any and all help and advice is much appreciated.
 

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Fasten the track to the ceiling with the same screws as you use for the steel stud and track. If you are drywalling the walls, I would use j trim on the top or d 200 half bead. This gives the top edge of the drywall a finished look.
 

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Screw into the lateral bars not the main ones (or whatever the heck they are called) that way you can replace the ones with holes in them later.
 

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I'm a Mac
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Use commercial partitions, this is their purpose, they are considered furniture. No damage to floors or ceiling, it all clips together.

Easily expandable, office can get changed around literally in one day when needed.
 

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I do mostly commercial and what the first two posters said is spot on. I generally don't use j molding I don't like look just mud and tape the too it's not hard to change tile and like the other poster said try to screw to the connectors not the main with pan head self tappers. Even if you screw into the main when you remove the screw it's not very noticeable and not impossible to cover up or change the main.
 

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I do mostly commercial work as well, and agree with the others with screwing to the grid with framing screws (known in the trade as peanuts or zippies). There is a clip that can be attached to the grid and screwed to the top track so you don't have to make holes in the grid, but they are usually only spec'd on gov't projects, or high end work. Along the top of the wall, I usually use tear- away trim, or "zip strip". It is basically an "L" bead with a piece that you tear away when done taping. The piece gives a clean straight edge along the top and keeps the taping knife from hitting the ceiling tile.
 

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If you are mudding it then I would use tear-away bead instead of J to keep the mud off the tiles. Fill any space between the top plate and the ceiling with sill foam or fiberglass insulation to block noise.
 

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I do mostly commercial work as well, and agree with the others with screwing to the grid with framing screws (known in the trade as peanuts or zippies). There is a clip that can be attached to the grid and screwed to the top track so you don't have to make holes in the grid, but they are usually only spec'd on gov't projects, or high end work. Along the top of the wall, I usually use tear- away trim, or "zip strip". It is basically an "L" bead with a piece that you tear away when done taping. The piece gives a clean straight edge along the top and keeps the taping knife from hitting the ceiling tile.
Caddy makes clips you can use, but it's easier to just screw the bastard into the t-bar.
 

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I do nearly exclusively commercial interiors, I know everything from steel studs to curved crown in a dome. I would recommend 25g studs, Armstrong makes a clip you screw to the t part of the grid use it, especially for reveal tile. Use 5/8 board, stand ups for sure, zip strip up top, know how to frame with metal. Use slammers, screw open side of stud first, only one side of metal needs to be screwed. Set your zip strip to a ceiling tile not your grid, takes away from scribing your tiles to the wall if you screw track right to grid your scribing anyhow
 

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What UBCGUY said except we never screw to the grid in class A office buildings, use the L brackets from Armstrong or Caddy. We only use 25g studs if we're using 1/2" rock, use 20G if we use 5/8" However we prefer 20 regardless of rock thickness and 20g when it's a 2-1/2" stud.

In most cases what you are doing requires a permit, especially if its a sprinkled building and there's a question on head coverage. Public/Life Safety is on the top of the list on the commercial side. (That's why we make the big bucks) :laughing:
 

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What UBCGUY said except we never screw to the grid in class A office buildings, use the L brackets from Armstrong or Caddy. We only use 25g studs if we're using 1/2" rock, use 20G if we use 5/8" However we prefer 20 regardless of rock thickness and 20g when it's a 2-1/2" stud.

In most cases what you are doing requires a permit, especially if its a sprinkled building and there's a question on head coverage. Public/Life Safety is on the top of the list on the commercial side. (That's why we make the big bucks) :laughing:
I was referring to the l brackets from Armstrong, or USG, or caddy lol I would never screw to the grid, that wall might not be their forever!
 

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Caddy makes clips you can use, but it's easier to just screw the bastard into the t-bar.
And there is no guarantee that the clips won't scratch up the track. Screw to the cross-t and deal with it the best way when and if you have to remove it.
 
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