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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a client wanting to frame out a neo angle shower. The bathroom has 14' vaulting celings and he is wanting the shower wall 8' tall 3' long. The wall will only be attached to the floor and adjoining wall. Then making a turn at 135 degrees continuing 6.5 inches where a 26" glass shower door will attach. I am wondering how to make this wall strong and stable enough to support the weight of the door. Is this possible?

Thanks in advance.

Ross
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I don't have any drawings I can put on the computer, but I will try to verbaly explain. The back existing shower wall is 7' long then turns back left at a 45 degree angle for 3' which is also an existing wall. My client is wanting to continue that wall out another 3' turn 135 degrees for 6.5" then a 26" curb, then turns left 90 degrees for 4' back to the starting 7" wall. Don't know if that helps.
 

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The Duke
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The old carpenter saying "glue it and screw it"

glue the bottom plate to the floor well, glue it to the wall, screw plate to studs, even put glue on the end of studs, then glue your panel (whatever it may be) to the studs.

That's about the best I can describe it.
 

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General Contractor
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I swear this is what you described. You really didn't mean "back left at a 45 degree angle", did you?
Or was it the "Then making a turn at 135 degrees" that I got a little wild?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I know when I apply the cement board it will add strength to the wall, but will it be enough. I would rather not build this wall completely with the cement board on and figure out it is not going to work, but that might be what I will have to do. Would adding plywood to the framing help before I put cement board on?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
close...rotate the door and 4' wall so the 4' runs perpendicular into the existing 7' wall (which would make the 26" door parallel with the 7' wall. also the 4' wall is 2' tall with glass running the rest of the way up
 

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That's kind of what I figured. :thumbsup: Still might have a little problem with those measurements?

(Ignore the first one,,,, I was playing around with some ideas...... (I erased it) This one has the 45 degree corner.... The other was thirty something.)
 

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Carpe Diem
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I know when I apply the cement board it will add strength to the wall, but will it be enough. I would rather not build this wall completely with the cement board on and figure out it is not going to work, but that might be what I will have to do. Would adding plywood to the framing help before I put cement board on?
CBU is rigid but not necessarily "strong". What substrate does the bathroom floor have?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It has a layer of 3/4" ply and a second layer of 5/16" ply. Those measurements were round just to get the general shape of the shower
 

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BTW, has your HO ever tried to clean the tiles back in a 45 Degree corner like that? Might want to point that out to them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I will mention that. I tried to talk him into cutting that 45 out because I am not to fond of running Cement Board and Tiling in tight corners like that. but he wants that area to be a bench area.
 

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Carpe Diem
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It has a layer of 3/4" ply and a second layer of 5/16" ply.
As framerman said, glue everything, preferrably something like PL Premium. Bolt the bottom plate to the floor. Use blocking between the studs. Adhesive on your wallboard to the studs. What do you use for waterproofing?
 

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Maybe try to talk him into the convenience of a squared off back on that bench. Perhaps an entire 12"? After all, he will still have to clean the tight corner on the bench.
 

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Design Build
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Is your floor a slab or a framed floor system?

Slab = epoxy in some post bases to secure 4x4 posts to that will live inside the wall.

Floor system = run a few 4x4 posts through the subfloor and brace them off in the joists below.

Just 2 cents
 

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Carpe Diem
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I use a 6mil plastic behind the CBU.

That's a vapor barrier, not waterproofing. :no:

We use a fabric membrane.
Wallboard
Thinset
Membrane
Thinset
Tile.

That makes a pretty stiff wall. Wallmaxx has a good point too. I've never had to do a "floating" wall that big. His suggestion would be bullet-proof.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I though about running some support under the subfloor. The wall that needs support is running at a 45 degree angle to the floor joist, which would make the diagonal on the 4x4 wider that 3.5" which is the thickness of the 2x4 wall. How would get around that. Should I rip the 4x4 down slightly?
 

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Carpe Diem
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thanks for the tip on the membrane. I am not a big tile guy.
FYI (this is a whole other topic) but you need to waterproof your shower, whether it's a liquid of fabric membrane. Lurk around the tile section or do a search for Kerdi. :thumbsup:
 
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