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GC
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Discussion Starter #1
Need a refresher on how to frame a blind valley. Both roofs are 8/12, don't remember how to figure out cuts or anything else. HELP!!!!

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Super Moderator
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That's a California....:thumbup:

If all pitches are 8/12 your California cuts are also on 8/12...:whistling

am I missing something in the question?
 

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griz said:
That's a California....:thumbup: If all pitches are 8/12 your California cuts are also on 8/12...:whistling am I missing something in the question?
I think what he's asking is if someone might be able to come "show" him how to do it.
 

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Get yourself a string line and run it level through the ridge of those few trusses up front. Die it into the plane of the main roof. That point is the point where the valleys also intersect. From there it's easy peezy. Then again, I thought the string line part was easy peezy.
 

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GC
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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks guys, appreciate all the help. One of my new framers was trying to do this himself and was way overthinking it. Didn't want to ask any of us because he knew we would have given him the same smart ass answers!! He is now suspended from the iPad!! Hahaha!!!
 

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Sheet the main roof in, stretch line across peak, straight edge marks onto sheeting at bottom of valley, snap valley lines. From there, its measure cut, & nail. Then layout rafter locations, & measure.
The cuts are either plumb 8/12, or level 8/12. The saw bevel degree will be about 37'.
 

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Wormdrive Operator
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Sheet the main roof in, stretch line across peak, straight edge marks onto sheeting at bottom of valley, snap valley lines. From there, its measure cut, & nail. Then layout rafter locations, & measure.
The cuts are either plumb 8/12, or level 8/12. The saw bevel degree will be about 37'.
What he said, except you don't have to sheet the main roof first. It may be the same amount of work but you can do the valleys first simply by putting your ridge levelled into the main roof, then stringing a valley down. Then put your valley board, and put plywood backups out of 2x4s in between the trusses. Then you can sheet the different planes separately.

This is one of the most simplest things to do in framing past building a wall, but I guess takes some experience to get used to that you can do it quickly without much real thought.
 

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GC
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Discussion Starter #13
Brian Peters said:
I'm wondering what a blind valley is too...I thought this looked like just a plain and simple valley.
ive always heard it referred to as a blind valley, but it's the same as a California or a scotch valley.
 

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KemoSabe
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I've heard blind valley, over-frame valley, seated valley, dead valley.....all the same thing.

Stick framing guys are probably more familiar with those terms, along with working valley, live valley, true valley...

In any case, get your gable plumb and straight and rafters properly spaced on the main roof before over-framing onto it.

Sheathing the main first allows for easier transferring of intersecting points for the over-frame.
 
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GC/carpenter
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oldfrt said:
Seems that single girder truss is being asked to carry quite a bit of weight for where snow may accumulate?
California fill should keep the snow away
 

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GC/carpenter
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heavy_d said:
What he said, except you don't have to sheet the main roof first. It may be the same amount of work but you can do the valleys first simply by putting your ridge levelled into the main roof, then stringing a valley down. Then put your valley board, and put plywood backups out of 2x4s in between the trusses. Then you can sheet the different planes separately. This is one of the most simplest things to do in framing past building a wall, but I guess takes some experience to get used to that you can do it quickly without much real thought.
We call it a California fill. We are required to sheet it first. The inspectors always hits up on the plywood with a 2x4 from down below to see if its nailed.
 

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The only logical reason for that blocking vs over sheathing sleeper, is that it's easier to inspect!
Inspector BS!
 
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