[not2late]

Hey everyone, I have a frameless kitchen cabinet job coming up that has a couple of diagonal corner cabinets. Never done a frameless diagonal corner.

My question is the hinges. I stopped at my supplier and picked up a couple of Blum 7989.698 hinges and the 173h71.00 plates. These are what is spec'd out in the catalog for the application.

Made a mock up of the cabinet and door and the hinges work fine. The problem that occurs is that the doors on the flanking cabinets stick out, so that the door edges are not in line. The diagonal corner door is pushed back.

It looks as if the door on the diagonal cabinet needs to be off the frame by about 7/16" to get everything to line up. If I pull the mounting plates closer to the cabinet edge I can get the door off the frame. This works but the bore distance is now pretty deep, about 3/8" from the edge to get the door back over to cover the gap.

I have no problem using the deeper bore gap but just wondering what you other cabinet makers have done with your diagonal corners. Any other solutions? I could make the diagonal cabinet sides about 3/8" deeper than the flanking cabinets but the crown moulding will start looking odd.

Thanks in advance and I hope my explanation can be understood .

 

[Willin]

Look carefully at the information in the Blum brochure. See below.

And yes, the door is stood off from the face of the cabinet. I make special little bumper blocks with 45-skew ends and glue them inside the cabinet, for receiving one of the stick-on bumpers, the same ones that go on all the other cabs.

 

[Gus Dering]

I wish there was an easy answer. I avoid these cabinets wherever I can.

I have yet to see an attractive way of stopping the door. Maybe Willin has one of his bumper.

But it does sound as though you have strayed from the good book. Another mock up adhering to the specs sounds like the best course of action. I would love to see your door bump solution when you do.

 

[Leo G]

The door needs to be 5/16" away from the cabinet for everything to line up. I didn't like the gap so I just put 1/4" strips of finished wood there to take up the space. You can put the bump there.

 

[Willin]

Here is a view of what I did. 3/8 x 1/4 stick, cut 45 for bumper face, tiny dab of glue to mount to cabinet, pinned with headless 23g, stick-on bumper shown.

Clunky, but it works.

This, or Leo's thing, essentially a thickened edge band or just a piece of one, to the face of the deck and top.

The most elegant fix is the thickened edge, full width, then bumper.

 

[Gus Dering]

So I take it that the back of the door clears that strip.

 

[Leo G]

5/16" gap and 1/4" strip and you use a 1/16" bump. If you are using FF hinges then you would probably only do a 3/16" strip of wood because you would need a 3/16" bump for the rest of the doors.

 

[Willin]

It does.

 

[Gus Dering]

I need to stop resisting this cabinet then. I like the thickened banding idea.

Those little 45's need protecting during shipping. But doable.

Any ideas if one side of the angle cabinet is a finished end?

 

[Leo G]

Works much better if there is another cabinet to hide the gap. If not you might have to angle the edge of the door so it follows the end. Otherwise it would look kinda stupid.

 

[Willin]

An applied-end solves all that. Project the front edge, of course.

These cabs are really nice when outfitted with the d-shaped susan stacks.

 

[not2late]

Hey Guys,

Thanks for all the thoughts and solutions. I'm leaning at cutting the base and top of the cabinets with the 1/4" extension (Leo's suggestion) as an integral part. Then the standard edgebanding. Hopefully it will be a nice clean look with tight gaps.

Thanks