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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am currently forming a new porch slab, we are using a 2x6 that has a bullnose design already cut into it, the problem is we need the form to be 2x8 I was thinking of adding a 2" piece but I don't want to see the joint between the two when done.
What is the best way to hide this? Was thinking of wood filler and then sanding, or taping using tuck tape or painters tape.
Any ideas are welcome.
P.s the timber can not be bought here in 2x8.
 

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Love me some Concrete
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Exactly what Chris said, tape or anything else will not hide the line. Stripping the forms and wood floating the sides is how you get rid of it and also to find any unknown cavities even when vibrated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Chris Johnson said:
Add the 2x as needed and then after the pour, strip it as soon as it's sets up and float the front to eliminate the seam.
I thought of this but just to unsure of the curing time, we use the mix on site trucks, dunno if this makes a difference.
If we remove the forms to soon and a corner fell of then game over..
 

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I'm a Mac
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Usually a couple hours and you can strip, basically once the top is done, start CAREFULLY pulling...don't put the labourer on the strip job, do it yourself...or chill the beer and call me up, I'll come over
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hey I might just take you up of that Chris, can give a few days notice if you are serious. Do you recommend putting anything on the inside of the timber before pouring, and who do you use for your pours in the city.
 

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Love me some Concrete
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I have found the form release helps big time in this, plus I use torx head screws, so they wont strip and all are placed so they can be removed easily and forms taken off without harming the underneath concrete.

And Chris is right again, DO NOT LET ANYONE ELSE STRIP THE FORM!!! You need to do it carefully and then if anything happens, its you're fault.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Should I try to limit my use of screws, without putting the whole thing at risk from busting apart, example, use strapping on the corners to tie them together instead of screwing.
 

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Love me some Concrete
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No, put alot of bracing and screws in. You will be shocked at how much force concrete presses out. Had a 3 foot poured wall damn near go over once, had it braced but apparently not enough. Thank heavens I had the bobcat on site, pushed up against it, brought it back vertical and then set the parking break on the bobcat. It worked great as a support:thumbsup:
 

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Renaissance Man
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I've never done a bullnose were I haven't stripped the forms. Then again, I use chamfer strip and tool the nose...
 

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Renaissance Man
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Here's an action shot and the tools I'll use...
 

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Love me some Concrete
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Dang Superseal, those look awesome...I am humbled, nice work. I had never seen any stairs done with that bullnose.
 

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Renaissance Man
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Ahh, I see,...that does create a caveat.

Since it looks like pretty good stock, I'd add lumber and sand that joint smooth. Use fiberglass bondo if you have to and smooth it out.

You could then paste shellac or spar varnish on your forms and vibe the edge when you place your mud.

Do you plan on removing these forms the same day? What type of finish are you looking for,... steel trowel, mag, brush/broom?

Myself, I'd pull the forms like any other day and deal with the edge while she's fresh.
 

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Renaissance Man
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Dang Superseal, those look awesome...I am humbled, nice work. I had never seen any stairs done with that bullnose.
Thanks, it's pretty common in our area to see this style nose since Stortz tool company is located nearby.
 

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I have never poured a porch or step face without pulling the form to finish it, if you have no experience with it call up someone that does to help you.

The timing can be a bit tricky sometimes, with a mix on site truck though I would bet you have lots of time.

Take the advice of everyone above, it's good. If you can't find a tool to match the profile of the form you can make your own by taking a piece of the form and sanding the edges, then coating it with packing tape. It is a trick I was taught for foam forms around pool decks.
 

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If you don't want to strip the form and scrub out the seam, what about instead of stacking the 2x6 bullnose piece directly above a 2" piece, step it out side the lower form board so it has a bump out/shadow line architectural feature? Then you can easily set it to whatever elevation you need.
 
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