Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum banner
1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A guy asked me about foaming his building. I dont do foaming but he wanted to know the best way to do it. It is a steel frame building and he didnt really want to foam right against the steel. He mentioned pulling the steel off everything and then housewrapping it so he can put foam against that. I thought it would be to big of pain in the butt being it is a pretty big building. Can we somehow fasten housewrap or something on the inside but we dont want it to sag either. Thanks for any input
 

·
Forming and Framing
Joined
·
6,273 Posts
Just go tight to the steel.. why would he want otherwise
Guaranteed tightest envelope..best adhesion. Besides if you put another membrane between you may be creating a double vapor barrier with the steel, membrane and the foam (assuming closed cell) (best foam).
By going tight the steel you eliminate any chance of condensation or sweating..which steel is notorious for.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
318 Posts
He just thought if he wanted to change something down the road it would be easier to take steel off and replace.
Yeah you'll never get that steel off thats for sure without causing major damage but on the other hand the steel might not damage as easily with a solid backing

Wonder if you could apply a oil to the backside of the steel to prevent the foam from bonding to it.

I would also be concerned about the foam having a chemical reaction with the steel if in direct contact. I known chemicals get hot when they change properties . Wonder if it would burn the paint and cause rust?

Let us know what you decide .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
544 Posts
Depending on the size of the building the steel should be sprayed with monokote for fire protection. What about the building core? What kind of steel are you referring to
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
This is a plumbers shop. Steel beams and posts,steel purlins steel paneling. Ive never heard of steel burning to where it would rust but it would definitly be something to look into.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,883 Posts
All the steel buildings in my area that are spray foamed get it direct, with no surface preparation, unless they get power washed because of dust. No primer, no protection, and since the objective is a perfect air seal, why would anyone try to kill that aspect?

Now, if you damage a panel or component that has foam on it, yeah, it is a pain, but damaged panels can be removed and the insulation trimmed...then the issue is getting the insulation replaced. Spray foam will add some structural enhancement to a building, but as far as I know, there are no specifics or values assigned because there is no standard or control to how much and the quality of the job.

Housewrapping the interior of a steel building would be dumb, IMO.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,732 Posts
I'd have the OP check the shop's insurance to see if it's allowed...

I have a buddy that moved his body shop into a foamed metal building, and he can't find anyone to cover fire.
 

·
Forming and Framing
Joined
·
6,273 Posts
The thing that kinda makes me chuckle is that, people (not just in this case) always seem willing to sacrifice the present performance of a product or system.. in anticipation of a "maybe this will happen down the road".
Don't devalue the system.. it will have great pay off if its done right.. if you don't use it right.., don't bother.. Damaged panel? So.. **** happens, replace panel and re foam as needed. :whistling
 

·
Forming and Framing
Joined
·
6,273 Posts
I'd have the OP check the shop's insurance to see if it's allowed...

I have a buddy that moved his body shop into a foamed metal building, and he can't find anyone to cover fire.
The foam should/ has to be covered. Most foams will not burn themselves, but they will off gas when a flame comes in contact with them.
 

·
Contractor of the Month
Joined
·
26,075 Posts
The foam should/ has to be covered. Most foams will not burn themselves, but they will off gas when a flame comes in contact with them.
Ever seen a piece of slag land on rigid DOW? :whistling
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,950 Posts
I think he's talking about insulation. Monokote is only required in rated buildings. Butler types normally don't require too extensive or complicated fire assemblies
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
We have sprayed foam directly on steel with good results, if the roof fails in the future he will have to roof over the roof. Closed cell foam sticks well to just about anything and the sun is about the only thing that breaks it down. For code you will need to coat it or cover it if its going to be inspected.
 

·
Love me some Concrete
Joined
·
1,834 Posts
You apply the foam directly to the steel, do not vapor barrier! The foam will not adhere to the building as it should and like stated above, it creates a way for mositure to remain under the steel causing bigger potential issues.

It is recommended that you remove the oil on the building panels before foaming, simply cleaning it with a oil remover is enough. Have you checked into how much it will cost to foam? It will shock you, it did me!

I have a 26' x 60' and it was more than what the concrete cost me to do it. Yep, mine is still palin steel, lol. I did find the mositure problem on the inside, is like a giant tin can, was extremely reduced by double visqueen barrier under the pad and I put vents in the large garage doors on each side. It turned out very nice and along with roof vents, has really cut down on the mositure in the building.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top