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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Over the last few months I've posted on here with questions I had regarding hardwood flooring. I just want to say thanks to the guys that replied. I'm done with the exception of 3 more boxes.

I will post pics soon.

If I could go back I would have bought a "flooring jack" sooner and would have liked to have had a "power palm nailer" from powernail.

Being winter I do notice small gaps that weren't there at time of install. I assume this is normal.
 

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Flooring jack isn't necessary.... just use scraps of 2"x4" and a pry bar.....As for the palm nailer I just face nail the last few and fill.... If it's pre-finished then I buy a touch up pen and some wood filler.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What do you use to tighten the boards say under a cabinet??

Where at in MI are you? I grew up in Royal Oak/Clawson.
 

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What do you use to tighten the boards say under a cabinet??

Where at in MI are you? I grew up in Royal Oak/Clawson.


Sometimes I run the wood all the way under the cabinets, other times I cut a piece of 3/4 ply and fasten it under the cabs.... I don't think I've ever installed hardwood up to existing cabinets. I usually only install hardwood when part of a larger remodel scope.

I now live in Chicago, but I grew up and lived in West Bloomfield most of my life. For a little while I lived in Ferndale at 9 and woodward.
 

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Head Light Bulb Changer
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Under toe kicks I use a flat bar. For wall lines I use a big screwdriver to pull each row tight. I buy the cheapo ones that have a full metal shank with a wood handle and tape the s**t out the handle. I also sharpen the end on a grinder. That's how I was taught many (many) years ago and it works for me. I tried a jack once and didn't like it, for whatever reason. I've seen a lot of guys using a jack and just face nailing the last 5-6 rows. Looks like crap IMO, but it's a lot faster.
 

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Method trumps tools sometimes. Someone mentioned working up to toekicks earlier. The best approach is to lay out straight, long stuff for those. Then you don't need anything. I like to full spread areas like that. It's way faster, and looks better. Same goes for working into a bay window. Just have a head on your shoulders and realize you're going to need straight stuff for when you get to that and covet it as you're nailing the rest of the job.
 

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Paul
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Method trumps tools sometimes. Someone mentioned working up to toekicks earlier. The best approach is to lay out straight, long stuff for those. Then you don't need anything. I like to full spread areas like that. It's way faster, and looks better. Same goes for working into a bay window. Just have a head on your shoulders and realize you're going to need straight stuff for when you get to that and covet it as you're nailing the rest of the job.
This is precisely what I do. I dig out long straight stuff for start and finish rows before anything ever gets nailed to the floor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I totally used the longest pieces for under the toekick and the last run against the walls, just didn't seem to get them that tight with just the prybar.

You guys have been great with info !!

I hope I never have to lay hardwood again either!!
 
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