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Discussion Starter #1
Are y'all ready for this?
I have a customer who has collected a floor, wood, tongue and groove, previously glued as a floating floor (no nail holes but a bunch of leftover glue).
The room is 20 X 21 and there is not enough to complete the job so she is having more milled to complete the job and wants it integrated with the old stuff.
Not enough fun yet?
The house was originally a 20X10 fish camp from the turn of the century, someone added a patio, someone enclosed the patio with CBS and I think that it is on sand, someone added another patio and this lady enclosed that and blew out the CBS wall. Over the decades the three seperate slabs have settled at their own rate (away from the original). Somewhere in the 30's or 40's someone installed a Masonite floor over the first 2 sections, the periphery has succumbed to water damage and she wants to retain the center part. The slope over the three sections is over 3" and occurs in parts, the original slab being level, the next less and the third decidedly off level.
I'm not done yet!
Three of the walls are rough stone so that all of the ends will have to be coped and there is no hope for a shoe mould.
I'm open for any and all suggestions.
 

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If her floor is real wood.....Run like the wind.....Now that I think of it run anyway. Too many negative variables . Moisture being the one that stands tallest.
 

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Flooring Guru
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Run Forrest....RUUUUUUUUUUUUN!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Everybody else has run and I kinda like a challenge. I'm going to shoot real high on the price and if she's willing to pay, I'll go for it.
Any ideas on how to get some sort of finished edge against the stone? I'm leaning towards a shoe mould and a ton of caulk to fill in the gaps. Stone is not something that most Floridians deal with but I know that it's common in other areas of the country.
 

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I think I would run a 'border' piece (of the same flooring) parallel to the stone wall. First pencil-scribe the stone to the border piece. Then cut your line with your Jig Saw. Now install the border first and simply square-butt the rest of the floor to it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
That would work on a naildown but she wants and it needs to be floating and this is Florida, humidity 40 - 100 %. A sub floor would be a real nightmare, transitions. She also has a son with a rare disease, semi-retarded and not able to walk very well. Transitions have to be minimal.
Sorry that I left this jewel out on the original post. The title says it all.
 

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Tom R said:
I think I would run a 'border' piece (of the same flooring) parallel to the stone wall. First pencil-scribe the stone to the border piece. Then cut your line with your Jig Saw. Now install the border first and simply square-butt the rest of the floor to it.
You could still do this with a floating floor just use a t mold or other low profile transition to hide the gap.


We run into stone alot up here in NH and usually just scribe the wood to it with as neat of a gap as possible (or laminate) and use a soft joint with a matching sealant.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Mike, Thanks, best idea that I have heard yet and this is running on 6 BB's.
I'm thinking of a T transition with one side cut to match the stone, beautiful!
Thanks!
 

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Or just 'rabbet' a piece of the actual flooring, so it's sitting 'proud'. and then put a 'proud-sized' spacer underneath. Let us know what you do and how it works out.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I'm going to pitch this Monday with custom transitions. I'll let you know if it flies. Thanks for the help.
 

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I recently finish a bamboo floor up against a cobble-stone fire place. I just scribed to it and held it about a grout-line off of the stone. I filled the gap with sanded silicone to match the grout color. Looks great.
 

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Donedat said:
... I filled the gap with sanded silicone to match the grout color. Looks great.
Sanded silicone? That sounds interesting. Is that something you mix up yourself, or is it a commercially available product?
 
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