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Flat black ceiling has roller marks

13K views 69 replies 20 participants last post by  Skyvorima 
Ive done in home theater ceilings of different textures and the best solution Ive found is to drop the walls, chairs, and floor then spray it out. Flashing can happen for different reasons---some of which are out of your control---and after switching to spraying I never had the problem again.
 
I've been reluctant to get a spraying rig because I feel like I've then made the life decision to be a painter. hah
Not that that's bad. It's just not what I had pictured for myself. I attempted to start a carpentry business a year and a half ago. The world had other ideas for me. I guess I should embrace it.
It's a low investment these days. You can get a decent sprayer for $400 and the time you save more than compensates. If you are new at spraying then practice before doing it at a client's property. (keep it at your neighbors house so you don't feel like a painter) :jester:
 
Maybe this is obvious, but nobody has mentioned it. When you roll a ceiling, do you do stripes or sections?

When I'm concerned about roller marks, I'm putting on 18 inch wide stripes all the way across. When I run out of paint, I reload it and continue the same stripe. When I reach the far wall, I walk back and start a new stripe. That's the surest way I know to keep a really wet edge.

Preferable to go short way across room. Preferable to go perpendicular to light source. Preferable to go perpendicular to room entrance.

Paint does make a difference too. You'd think special ceiling paints would work better, but no. In my experience, they are just more expensive. Stick with the cheap flat stuff.

As for the sprayer, I don't use it on ceilings, but just get one anyway. I have this one:http://www.lowes.com/pd_295429-48690-LTS+15_0__?productId=4745129
It won't last as long as the Titan. The Titan is made to be rebuildable, so you can kill it over and over again and it just won't die. But if you just want to put your toe in the water, you can definitely make some money on a $300 investment. It'll pay for itself in one job!
I picked up a Graco cordless and have used it on interior/exterior projects and for the money it cannot be beat. I did modify the cup/suction system so I did not have to stop every 25 minutes for a refill and being cordless is very handy around crazy dormers and architects on meth designs. The batteries charge very quickly and have never had to wait for a recharge between the two.
 
I assume this is new const. your doing but if you can get your contract in time ask the GC or homeowner to call you in before anything is installed. Then buy a small spray rig like a Graco pro9 and learn to spray. If you can go in and spray the ceilings before anything is installed you will save a lot of money in time and materials, plus end the problem with lap marks. Tint your primer gray, spray it, then spray your finish coat.
Ive tried that approach and for some reason something always bucked it up being someone making cuts or dust from other work and there were always marked up areas requiring touch ups. Personally, on any painting contract I prefer to be the last company on site.
 
I have a sprayer and don't consider myself a painter. But, a man's gotta do...

Today, I repaired some drywall; repaired some crown molding, rescreened a sliding screen door and planted and weeded flower beds. Why, because I was paid to do those jobs. I would have spayed a ceiling if someone asked. I don't care what you call me or label me, just pay me for the hat I may be wearing that day.

I obtained my sprayer like my brake, through a job that needed to be done. The sprayer came from being asked to paint an outdoor wicker furniture set. Boom. Sprayer is now in the arsenal.

Am I the only one who does this?
When I first opened years ago it was mainly painting but people would ask if I could do something and I would be honest about the relative experience. Ive always had mechanical hands so Ive not run into anything objectionable but I also found a nice side benefit.

In learning as many aspects as possible I started doing Maintenance Inspections for new home buyers. This is strictly a contingency fee and I take 20%-25% of the outcome. The first house I did earned $8,000 off the selling price and it took me less than 12 hours including all the paperwork. Home inspectors have very different approach but the main reason this sells is the clients never have an out of pocket cost for my Reports. Im not always going to be physically able to move equipment and climb ladders and roofs like squirrels and I will never work for another company and I definitely don't want that social security garbage....if it will still be around.
 
Why 3/4? I'm not disagreeing with, I just wonder why.

It's my understanding that aside from thicker nap holding more paint, a smaller nap 3/8 would be great for a smooth surface (drywall) and a thicker nap would be best for a rough surface (brick/block).
Roller marks typically stem from paint drying during the application thus a 1/2-3/4 knap delays the drying time compared to a 3/8 knap. People tend to overlook the ceiling surface is generally the warmest part of the room. Well, unless my wife is looking at it. Then we can have hockey practice. :laughing:
 
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