Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Could use some advice regarding flashing chimney faced with veneer stone:

Have built new block chimney and plan to face it with cultured stone (owens corning). Tech details from the manufacturer specify that a 2" space must be left under the bottom course of stone and above the roof deck, in order to allow water to weep from behind the veneer. This will result in an ugly finish to the job, particularly on my ranch house with 4 - in 12 pitch roof. Chimney also involves a cricket.

Has anyone overcome this design problem? I'd appreciate all ideas that will enable me to proceed towards a nice looking finish
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
215 Posts
Well, since I think like a roofer 'cause I are one, might I suggest that you wrap the block and adjacent roof decking with ice and watershield, then flash out with the metal flashing . . . and then apply the final product on the chimney structure . . . . and forget about the 2" gap.

I would still leave a gap that allows water to clear, but it needn't be ugly.

Just my .02.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks APKOLE

I've run I/W shield along the deck and up the block chimney approx. 6". It appears you're suggesting I drop I/W from the chimney top down over the chimney and the I/W just mentioned, to shed any water getting to the block.

If I were to do that, I'd have to nail lathe along the entire face of the chimney, over the I/W in order to place the veneer, step flash and counter flash under the lathe, and finally leave some space between the bottom course of the veneer and the deck. Is that what you're suggesting?

If so, have you done anything similar? How did it look when finished, and did it function properly?

Thanks again
 

·
Roofer
Joined
·
681 Posts
If the chimney has been properly shingled and flashed than you can run your stone much closer to the deck than what the spec's suggest,
the bottom of the stone should be atleast 1/4 to 1/2 inch above the highest point of your shingles.

Don't forget to let your flashing's run beyond the corners instead of cutting and wrapping them.
Use over sized step flashing's that lay on the deck and run up the block atleast six inches.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Slyfox - please elaborate

Could you provide some details regarding running the flashing beyond the corners?

I'd plan to place an apron on the lowest face of the chimney, step flashing up the sides of the chimney, and a cricket on the high end. How might I go beyond the corners?

Thanks in advance.
 

·
Roofer
Joined
·
681 Posts
Could you provide some details regarding running the flashing beyond the corners?

I'd plan to place an apron on the lowest face of the chimney, step flashing up the sides of the chimney, and a cricket on the high end. How might I go beyond the corners?

Thanks in advance.
Like toms pic shows, except his don't show step flashing.

When you run your apron flashing on the front 'lowest point' the base that sets on the deck will extend out beyond the sides 4" or so and the top portion that's running up the wall will be cut and rapped,
than your step flashing will extend at least 2" 'break point' out past the corner of the chimney and over lap your apron flashing.
After you install the stone the part of the step flashing left exposed can be trimmed back close to the surface of the stone so it's not visible from the ground.

I always color code my flashing's to flow with the trim colors of the home.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,271 Posts
yea i didnt take any pics during flashing but the step flashing extends past the break point over the first shingle,then the counter is wraped around the step flashing locking the counter in place
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top