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Discussion Starter #1
hello;

I'm getting ready to do a torch down on my new shop roof.
I have read all the fire warnings.

I have bought GAF 75# base and GAF TP-4 Granular

questions:
1. The granular sheet has a thin plastic skin over the mod. bit.
Do I peel this off, or do I just melt it in.
2. How do I do butt joints? Is the end of the roll granular free?
I assume I can't torch on top of the granular.

thanks
 

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Commercial Roofing
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You should REALLY REALLY REALLY consider hiring a professioanl to do your roof. You are risking burning down the building and killing all of its occupants. DO NOT DO THIS!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the warnings. I will keep them in mind.

I have a fire extinquisher, I know how to use it. If something catches on fire I will put it out. What is so risky about that?

I suppose something could smolder and ignite later so I will keep my eye on it.

Any safety tips would be appreciated.

There is risk driving to the store, but we all do it.

thanks again
 

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here's a safety tip:

[/QUOTE]You should REALLY REALLY REALLY consider hiring a professioanl to do your roof. You are risking burning down the building and killing all of its occupants. DO NOT DO THIS
 

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I never recommend anyone use open flame without the supervision of a skilled professional. Go returnt he modified you bought and go buy some self adhesive modified.

I also always encourage everyone to hire a professional roofer no matter what type of roof they are installing. Your roof protects your building and everything in it. A few hundred bucks saved now can cost you thousands in replaced ceilings and equipment down the road.

If you do insist on doing this yourself then read the manufacturers instructions and it will tell you all you need to know.
 

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Torch applied roof

Ringo, there are other hazzards that are probably not listed on the label. Think about your breathing. It gives off many forms of toxens when heated. I do remodeling and sometimes run into torch applied and do them myself with help of my guys. You leave the plastic skin and it will melt, it is there only to keep tar off the granuals. Over lap the butt joints 4" - 6" The tar will seal even over the granuals. Heat the felt and the underside of the roll at the same time as you roll it out and may God be with you in this quest.
.

thanks[/QUOTE]
 

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Ringo said:
hello;

I'm getting ready to do a torch down on my new shop roof.
I have read all the fire warnings.

I have bought GAF 75# base and GAF TP-4 Granular

questions:
1. The granular sheet has a thin plastic skin over the mod. bit.
Do I peel this off, or do I just melt it in.
2. How do I do butt joints? Is the end of the roll granular free?
I assume I can't torch on top of the granular.

thanks
If you need to ask these questions ,you realy should not be doing this job yourself. Plus i guarantee your insurance does not cover you for torch applied roofing unless you are a roofing contractor.
 

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bergenbldr said:
If you need to ask these questions ,you realy should not be doing this job yourself. Plus i guarantee your insurance does not cover you for torch applied roofing unless you are a roofing contractor.
... and not ALL insured roofing contractors are covered for torch work either. Quite a few have specific exclusions.

For example my own coverage is dramatically reduced when it comes to open flames.
 

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With the adhered products improving all the time it realy doesnt make sense to increase ones liability and risk to just apply a torch down.
Best to follow manufacturer recomendations for the application
 

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I have been looking at it, but still would only use it for mid-slope applications on residentials with no obstructions and a gutter edge (no drain details)
 

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Torch Roof

Ringo said:
hello;

I'm getting ready to do a torch down on my new shop roof.
I have read all the fire warnings.

I have bought GAF 75# base and GAF TP-4 Granular

questions:
1. The granular sheet has a thin plastic skin over the mod. bit.
Do I peel this off, or do I just melt it in.
2. How do I do butt joints? Is the end of the roll granular free?
I assume I can't torch on top of the granular.

thanks
Ringo Check the Fire Code of Your State

Chap F 1417.1 Roofing Operations utilizing heat producing systems or other ignition sources SHALL be performed by a contractor, licensed AND bonded for the type of roofing process to be performed.
Chap F 1417.3 address Fire Extinguishers.
 

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Torching is not something you just do, you have to learn how to do it. As for not answering his questions, why should we? If he doesnt know how to install a product its probably not a good idea to tell him how when working with open flames.

If I were you I would hire someone, or go buy S/A mod bit and do it that way.

There are a number of people here who can tell you exactly how to do this, but we are looking out for that persons well being. If you just built the shop why would you risk burning it down? Torch roofs can smolder for hours with out someone knowing about it. Plywood or coverboard doesnt matter even ISO will smolder.


@scrapy750

Try being civil everyonce and awhile. Stop generalizing about roofers. Its not like we are sitting in here talking about all the plumbers and thier hairy butt cracks, or how they cant put a roof drain in to save thier life, or how they come up on the roof and think its a good idea to slam a pipe though and seal it with "tar" and by that I mean asphalt caulking in a tube and its on a PVC roof. :whistling
 

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If I had a nickel for every time I saw an impropery applied modified bitumen roof, I'd retire. No envelopes, running the field sheet up the walls in lieu of proper wall and base flashing, no terminations, no targets around penetrations, and on and on and on. After all these years, apparently.............the plumber did it.

On a serious note, if you are a Master Plumber and don't get completely beside yourself when you find out joe handyman is turning your tricks around town for $15 bucks an hour, you'd be the first I met. Most licensed trades get very offended when other trades pilfer their licensed work. Why should a roofer be any different. There is absolutely NO way this guy can put this roof on to spec, and if it's not to spec......it won't last. It's just a very expensive patch.
 

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looks like the posts got cleaned up a bit. Hopefully someone wont be back.

Back to topic.

Ringo take a step back and think about it for a little while. You just built a new shop and your going to put and open flame to it. Sometimes these things arent just as simple as puting out a fire they can get out of hand very very quickly. This is why a great number of roofers do not install these type of systems any more.
 

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Torching is not something you just do, you have to learn how to do it. As for not answering his questions, why should we? If he doesnt know how to install a product its probably not a good idea to tell him how when working with open flames.
Those are my thoughts exactly. I'm not going to tell someone how to do something they shouldn't be doing then get sued because they burned down a building and I was the one who told them what to do. I mean seiously, would YOU reading this want someone on your roof with a flame thrower putting out a couple thousand degrees? MY guess is No.


Probably this same guy... http://www.diychatroom.com/f9/help-torch-down-mb-114213/ Look at this joke of a thread. The guy drove 800 miles round trip from Canada to Indiana USA because he saved $10 a roll. LOL. WTF is wrong with people?!



BTW Moderators I want my post back!
 

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If I had a nickel for every time I saw an impropery applied modified bitumen roof, I'd retire. No envelopes, running the field sheet up the walls in lieu of proper wall and base flashing, no terminations, no targets around penetrations, and on and on and on. After all these years, apparently.............the plumber did it.

On a serious note, if you are a Master Plumber and don't get completely beside yourself when you find out joe handyman is turning your tricks around town for $15 bucks an hour, you'd be the first I met. Most licensed trades get very offended when other trades pilfer their licensed work. Why should a roofer be any different. There is absolutely NO way this guy can put this roof on to spec, and if it's not to spec......it won't last. It's just a very expensive patch.
People ask me why I don't like modified anymore, and honestly a large part of the reason other than risk and insurance and safety, a larger reason is I just don't want to be associated with the ind of contractor who installs modified. Not to say you can't provide a fine roof with modified, there are lots of great craftsman installing modified bitumen. But for every one properly trained roofer installing modified I am willing to bet there are 5 or 6 who are clueless. I just didn't want to be associated with that anymore and made the change to single ply.
 

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There is risk driving to the store, but we all do it.
OK, let's do the cost/benefit by the numbers.

Cost to you in dollars of a catastrophic outcome to this event which causes property damage or personal injury = $CDIY
Likelihood, 0 to 1, of a catastrophic outcome to this event due to operator error or any other foreseen or unforeseen cause = LDIY

Cost in dollars to hire a pro = $CPRO
Likelihood, 0 to 1, of you paying for a pro who screws the pooch on this job = LPRO

If $CDIY x LDIY = $CPRO x LPRO then this decision is a toss-up, financially speaking.

In any case do not qualify for a Darwin Award.
 
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