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diplomat
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'm heading to a remote-ish place in Alaska to build a garage with a friend. It needs 3' frost walls, and I've determined formed walls will be by far the cheapest.

This is a free project for an old friend, trying to keep cost to a minimum. No subs available.

I've never been on a form crew or even a project with formed walls, except long after the crew was done. It's been all monolithic slabs and ICFs for me, or coming in long after foundation walls are done.

Can I get away with 5/8" ply to re-use on the roof (maybe with 6-mi poly as a form-release)? It doesn't have to look great underground, some bowing is fine. What should my stud and whaler spacing be?

Flame away, I know it's a basic question.
 

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Super Moderator
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Are you looking to form to 4' and pour 3'?

Any bowing will make stripping forms more difficult.

8" wall?

3 runs of 2x4 and staked 24" oc will get you close.

Willing to use form ties? Will put holes in your roof sheathing.

No flame, your presence here is pretty real...:thumbsup:

Didn't your OP say 1/2" ply? same response....
 

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diplomat
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Griz,

I changed to 5/8 because I looked up the snow load! It's a small 1 story building and can be a 6" wall.

I don't mind holes in the sheathing.

planned to just form 3' high, the 3' rip works with the roof run and the 12" rip will make shelves inside.
 

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I've done the 4' form & 3' pour using 1x2 at concrete height and then having 4' width ply to work with.

Ended up being easier than I anticipated.
 

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Butcher of wood and metal
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A normal 3/4 form ply with snap ties uses 10 ties per 4x8 4 about 8" from edge 8' way with 2 in middle. tthese where used with double 2x4s on ties. 1/2 ply might be pushing it, have to be careful not to over work the mud and clause a blowout. I think I would just skip the poly and use the smooth side with some oil on it. Hope this helps some. Going to mix the mud on site?
 

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diplomat
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
There is a batch plant and truck. Concrete starts at about $175 a yard.
 

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Butcher of wood and metal
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Another thing guys here do on short ours in forms is to use nails for height kind of like pouring a slab with pins to go by. The 5/8 will make for a better roof specially if putting metal on.
 

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Butcher of wood and metal
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Wow!! makes me appreciate a buck and a quarter here....:whistling

Guess that's the price you pay for living in the last frontier...:thumbup:
Just got a quote the other day for 6 sack at 114 :thumbsup: and I was thinking that was high. Can remember the day of 35 a yard too. :laughing:
 

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diplomat
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If I can't get a hold of ties, just how much bracing should I be planning on?
 

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diplomat
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Just got a quote the other day for 6 sack at 114 :thumbsup: and I was thinking that was high. Can remember the day of 35 a yard too. :laughing:
Makes me think Fairbanks has pretty cheap concrete. About the same. There is an abundance of gravel and sand from the river.

This little job though is in a little place you can't drive to.
 

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You could use (galvanised)9-11ga. wire ties instead of form ties, but then must insure that forms can't pinch together, I've used water pipes as spreaders instead of conventional form ties.

Care during the forming and pouring of the footers will save many hours of cobbling later... If the footer is out of level when "finished": consider an oldstyle "Mud sill" of mortar between the sill plate and wavy footings, just buy/install 2" longer anchor bolts....
 

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Have Trowel, Do travel
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and I've determined formed walls will be by far the cheapest.

This is a free project for an old friend, trying to keep cost to a minimum. No subs available.



Flame away,
Most of the times the cheapest for the non experienced is by far the costliest,
I wish you the best of luck.

By myself I can form and pour a basic 3000sq.ft. basement in 1 week.
teardown 2 days after
 
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Hack
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I think if you can't get ties locally, then you may be able to use ready rod, bolts, and washers. Also pvc pipe for spacers.
I think you can increase your o. C spacing as well.
I'm not explaining this well enough... And it's not really cost effective, but it's another idea.
And 5/8th will be fine for form ply. I like the idea of using 6mil poly for a release agent.
 
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