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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Contractor asked me to get this clear coated for him.
I've finished hundreds of doors and windows. Alway disassembled those as far as I could and sprayed the components.

How do real cabinet shops do this?

Mask the drawer slides and door hinges? Or remove them.

Spraying General Finishes Exterior 450, as provided by the contractor.


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be faster to take the slides out than to mask, just mark a few of the non adjustable holes so they go back in exactly where they were
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, that's what I started to do after I posted.
Just trying to avoid any hard lessons on some one else's project


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Yep, pull the hardware, spray the doors off the cabinet. Might want to spray the exterior first, mask it off and then spray the interior. 1st coat spray the whole cabinet because you're going to have to scuff sand everything anyway. With the back attached the interior is going to have a lot of bounce back.

Might want to take the drawer fronts off and spray the backs of them also. An unbalanced panel might warp. Spraying just one side of a board makes it unbalanced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks, pretty much answered all the questions going through my mind as I was taking things apart.
Tested this GF450 on the bottom unseen areas and getting wicked grain raise that I have to figure out how to prevent. Or give up and let it raise andbsandbthe crap out of it?
Dunno. Love working with unfamiliar products.
It also doesn't like the 90 degree temps in the shop. May have to wait until morning.
Yep, pull the hardware, spray the doors off the cabinet. Might want to spray the exterior first, mask it off and then spray the interior. 1st coat spray the whole cabinet because you're going to have to scuff sand everything anyway. With the back attached the interior is going to have a lot of bounce back.

Might want to take the drawer fronts off and spray the backs of them also. An unbalanced panel might warp. Spraying just one side of a board makes it unbalanced.
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hah! Found it. I thought I had some of this sitting around. Can't remember why anymore. But I'll give it a try. Had to dig way back in the cabinet for that one.


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Water based is going to raise the grain. Period. You can't get away from it. Sand everything to 220 before you spray. This will minimize the severeness of the grain raise. Then 220 or 320 for scuffing. Look at what they require.

Sometimes it's best to do smaller sections if it's drying fast because of the heat. Corners are natural cut off points for spraying. Mask to a corner and leave a little beyond the wrap of the corner so the finish can flow around it. I usually use pre-taped masking plastic. Put it about 3/4" away from the corner and then use 1" tape to get close to the corner leaving the little bit of wrap for the finish. Spray the side and pull the masking tape and it won't leave a hard line. It'll flow and have a nice smooth taper. Then when you do the other side you do the same to the corner, spray and pull that pc of tape and you end up with a really nice smooth corner with no tape lip/stop of the finish.

Solvent you can use slower thinners to account for the heat. Waterborne... not so much.
 
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