[Frenchy]

I'm just about ready to finish some hardwood floors which I've sanded to remove old finish and I'm wondering how the Pro's fill in all the spaces that run along the edges of the boards? The floor is 2 1/2 " t&g oak that's about 40 years old. I guess I'm hoping that there's some sort of pourable filler that I can use???? Any Suggestions??

Bruno Blais
Frenchy's Window Cleaning
Enfield,CT

 

[hatchet]

The edges of the boards or the edges of the room?

 

[Frenchy]

Rich,
The edges of the boards.(They run the length of a hallway about 20' long.
The cracks are 1/16 to 3/16 Wide.

Thanks in advance for any advice!

 

[hatchet]

There isn't anything I know for that. There is a stainable wood filler - but I personally don't think it look for crap. I was going to say if it was up against the wall then add another shoe molding - but that wasn't the case..

 

[Ron in Southern]

use guarter round to hide the expansion gap if gap is filled I think the floor will bow

 

[hatchet]

Quarter round at the board edges? That might make for tough walking. Unless I misunderstood Frenchy - he's talking about all the boards of the floor. Not just at the edge of wall. That's what I was thinking at first too was to just add another shoe molding to the existing wall molding.

 

[Floorwizard]

wood putty for the actual boards and quarter round if the edge of the room.


kinda confusing huh?

 

[hatchet]

Lol..

 

[Ron in Southern]

yeah I must of gotten confused on it but after reading again I guess it would be difficult to walk on the moulding huh ?

 

[hatchet]

hah.. I don't think we're sure yet on what the situation is though. I think Florcraft summed it up for us.

 

[Teetorbilt]

The way that I read it is that the gaps are throughout the floor surface although I find it difficult to believe a 3/16 gap in 2 1/2" oak flooring unless it was put down green.
Did you save the sanding dust?

 

[Frenchy]

I wish I was Having as much fun as you guys are with this problem....LoL
Yes I have the sanding dust.

 

[Glasshousebltr]

Find a suitable adhesive too mix with the dust and make your own filler. Suitable? ...close to the shade of the stain you selected. If your getting a lot of movement in the floor, and it sounds like that (3/16 gaps), this might not last, so consider your time and money to replacment cost. Bob

 

[Teetorbilt]

Frenchy, I don't think that anyone is making sport of you. The dust mixed with a clear drying glue makes an excellent filler and it's color matched. This is a very old cabinet makers trick. I use it all of the time.

 

[Frenchy]

Frenchy, I don't think that anyone is making sport of you. The dust mixed with a clear drying glue makes an excellent filler and it's color matched. This is a very old cabinet makers trick. I use it all of the time.

I've also used this trick on cabinets and furniture but I'd have to mix up a whole gallon of glue for this floor. My knees hurt already...LoL
Thanks for your help.
Frenchy

 

[Teetorbilt]

I looked for magic wands in HD and Lowe's both were out. :cheesygri

 

[Frenchy]

I've filled in all the cracks in the floor and now I'm wondering if the glue in the filler I made will reject the finish.Should I use water base finish or Poly? How many coats will it take to get a flat appearance in the finish?

 

[Teetorbilt]

What type of glue did you use? Once set most glues should accept any finish.
Personally, I like mineral based varnishes. Why?
I'm old and it's the way it's always been done.
I like the smell, there is just something about it.
Mineral varnishes are thinner and dry slower, giving better penetration into the wood.
I think that water based polyurethanes look like plastic.
MHO