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After looking at that, I guess I've never used fiber. Looks interesting. What is the point of it instead of the other stuff? I assume it works on large patches? I suppose I'll read the link first.
1. bad plaster walls...36'' roll of ff will fix that
2. patch work will be flat and dry faster
3. ff dry time is faster then paper
4. ff will fuse itself to the drywall
5. you can 2nd coat when wet....and so much more:clap:
 
You cannot treat paper like mesh or mesh like fiber or fiber like tape. They all have different properties and will not respond well to the same treatment. With that said, I still don't like using paper with hot mud.
add glue to your hotmud. just plain old carpenters glue and you will have no more problems using paper tape and hotmud. i have been doing it for a few years and would never go back. it also stops the delaminating issues from using hotmud over paint. just thin it down with water first so it will disperse into the mix or you will wind up with glue lumps.
 
add glue to your hotmud. just plain old carpenters glue and you will have no more problems using paper tape and hotmud. i have been doing it for a few years and would never go back. it also stops the delaminating issues from using hotmud over paint. just thin it down with water first so it will disperse into the mix or you will wind up with glue lumps.
I don't doubt that it works, but I am not one to stray from manufactures recommendations.

As for delaminating, it is most often caused by one of two reason. Either is was not fully cured or the wall was not completely clean after sanding before applying.

When we started allowing the mud to cure and wiped down with a damp towel, we have had zero issues.
 
Sheesh, I don't even want my name in this thread. :whistling :jester:

I've used both in the past, but I had a roll of mesh the other day so decided to use it with hot mud because I had it. It was on some small patch work. It just made a mess, came loose, slid around and generally sucked.

Then I used it on some foot long seams and it was ok, but didn't do anything different then paper. So there's my answer. I Dunno. :laughing:

To the OP, if you are thinking the paper will fall apart because of moisture, it won't. If moisture gets to the paper after taping, mudding, texturing, priming and painting you have much bigger problems. Of course, now we will start a thread discussing how I didn't do those in the right order. :whistling ;)
Try using spray glue before putting on your mesh. Let it flash first and then stick your mesh. Eliminates a lot of the issues you were describing.
 
I don't doubt that it works, but I am not one to stray from manufactures recommendations.

As for delaminating, it is most often caused by one of two reason. Either is was not fully cured or the wall was not completely clean after sanding before applying.

When we started allowing the mud to cure and wiped down with a damp towel, we have had zero issues.
mudmax and ezsand and a little water works good:thumbsup:
 
I've always use mesh with hot mud but paper for corners. When using bucket mud I used paper.

Now since reading the last thread or 2 on this subject I bought a roll of fiberfuse and have been using it since.
That stuff is great.

Very happy working with it and the results.
 
for all of you that patch with 5 or 20 for years and do it all the time ...why do you use 5...
I don't have room to keep a bag of 5 , 20 ,45 ,90 and 120 I just use 45 ...I can use a bucket of 45 with out it getting hard so there is no need for 90 and 120 ...and you can turn 45 into 20 and 15 and 5 if you need too....so why do you buy 5 min mud
 
for all of you that patch with 5 or 20 for years and do it all the time ...why do you use 5...
I don't have room to keep a bag of 5 , 20 ,45 ,90 and 120 I just use 45 ...I can use a bucket of 45 with out it getting hard so there is no need for 90 and 120 ...and you can turn 45 into 20 and 15 and 5 if you need too....so why do you buy 5 min mud
I use 20. 45 takes to long to set. I don't need that kind of dry time. But if a needed a bucket I would use 90. Just throw a bag in the can and go. I keep 20 on the van.
 
for all of you that patch with 5 or 20 for years and do it all the time ...why do you use 5...
I don't have room to keep a bag of 5 , 20 ,45 ,90 and 120 I just use 45 ...I can use a bucket of 45 with out it getting hard so there is no need for 90 and 120 ...and you can turn 45 into 20 and 15 and 5 if you need too....so why do you buy 5 min mud
We use 5 min. mud because we are in a hurry and dont have time to waste. You can also turn 5 min. mud into 2 min. mud with hot water. I use 20 and 40 also,,, depends on what im doing. If Im in a hurry and hittin a patch on my lunch break between jobs I really dont have time to waste so I use 5 min mud
 
If I have a popcorn, knockdown, or plaster patch/repair...... ProForm 5 minute is my go to "hot mud". It actually gives you about 10 minutes work time, and it tools down beautifully with a wet sponge and a 6" knife after it hardens. After being taught this method, I rarely use a broad knife on smaller patches/repairs anymore unless the work requires busting out a large area due to uneveness. You can put any texture you like over within 15 minutes.
 
We use 5 min. mud because we are in a hurry and dont have time to waste. You can also turn 5 min. mud into 2 min. mud with hot water. I use 20 and 40 also,,, depends on what im doing. If Im in a hurry and hittin a patch on my lunch break between jobs I really dont have time to waste so I use 5 min mud
I don't use hot water ,I keep dirty water from my last mix in a water bottle. So if I need 5min I use dirty water with ezsand 45. I keep dirty water from each coat. then skim and wash and wipe tight.
you need to shake the dirty water. I have no use for 5 min
 
I don't doubt that it works, but I am not one to stray from manufactures recommendations.

As for delaminating, it is most often caused by one of two reason. Either is was not fully cured or the wall was not completely clean after sanding before applying.

When we started allowing the mud to cure and wiped down with a damp towel, we have had zero issues.
If the manufacturers made a product that worked I would not need to modify it. PVA glue is the binding agent in pre-mix mud anyway. Manufacturers recommendations is to cover their ass. Adding glue covers my ass. If you don't have glue mixing some premix with hotmud works also.
 
If the manufacturers made a product that worked I would not need to modify it. PVA glue is the binding agent in pre-mix mud anyway. Manufacturers recommendations is to cover their ass. Adding glue covers my ass. If you don't have glue mixing some premix with hotmud works also.
Once I started wiping the walls I have had no issues with delamination. The product euros just fine. That and I also top with premix on larger patches.
 
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