Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum banner
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
If the customer doesn't care what size siding to use, what size would you suggest? I'm thinking the largest size that still allows it to be blind nailed, because installation will be faster, but there won't be exposed nails. For Certainteed that would be 8 1/4.

Any problems with that analysis? Is there anything easier about installing smaller sizes, weight or otherwise?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,977 Posts
If the customer doesn't care what size siding to use, what size would you suggest? I'm thinking the largest size that still allows it to be blind nailed, because installation will be faster, but there won't be exposed nails. For Certainteed that would be 8 1/4.

Any problems with that analysis? Is there anything easier about installing smaller sizes, weight or otherwise?
No, smaller sizes means more courses, more work. James Hardi specs out exposed nailing only in places that need it, where ever there's a corner sticking out, even for the 8 1/4".
 

·
Registered
Butcher of wood and metal
Joined
·
7,005 Posts
Really kind of depends on the house. Some narrow 4-5 " looks better others wider stuff look good. You take a house that was designed for 4 " and put 8 or wider on it, just ruins the looks of it. It is not always about throwing the siding on fast , collect the money and move on to the next. If it takes longer to do you charge more.

Sure hope you are not thinking of using Certaineed Bad choice. Believe there is a class action suit against them right now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
732 Posts
I like to cheat courses and make sure all the horizontal window and door lines line up with the siding courses. Its hard to do once you go past 6 1/4 siding without it becoming obvious.

Guess it all depends on what kinda quality your looking to deliver.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,224 Posts
tccoggs said:
I like to cheat courses and make sure all the horizontal window and door lines line up with the siding courses. Its hard to do once you go past 6 1/4 siding without it becoming obvious. Guess it all depends on what kinda quality your looking to deliver.
Do you mean setting the reveal based off the height of the windows? For example if the window is 72 3/4" from the bottom course and it takes 12 courses of 6" revealed siding to get there, you would cheat each one a 16th? When setting up the layout, before the first nail is sunk, I try to just set the trim further down so it's all the same reveal. From the example I gave above I would just raise the trim 3/4" if possible or run starter trim out of 5/4 pvc to get the first course proper. More time consuming to start but I prefer it to making adjustments on the fly.

I'll admit I set the first course with a laser level too so maybe I'm just OCD.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,224 Posts
somerbuilder said:
If the customer doesn't care what size siding to use, what size would you suggest? I'm thinking the largest size that still allows it to be blind nailed, because installation will be faster, but there won't be exposed nails. For Certainteed that would be 8 1/4. Any problems with that analysis? Is there anything easier about installing smaller sizes, weight or otherwise?
I'd measure the heights of the openings on the walls as well as the total height and figure which one required the least cut's. Also, 8 1/4 hardi is 35% cheaper than 7 1/4 around here. Price the materials both ways and you will quickly find the solution.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
732 Posts
Do you mean setting the reveal based off the height of the windows? For example if the window is 72 3/4" from the bottom course and it takes 12 courses of 6" revealed siding to get there, you would cheat each one a 16th? When setting up the layout, before the first nail is sunk, I try to just set the trim further down so it's all the same reveal. From the example I gave above I would just raise the trim 3/4" if possible or run starter trim out of 5/4 pvc to get the first course proper. More time consuming to start but I prefer it to making adjustments on the fly.

I'll admit I set the first course with a laser level too so maybe I'm just OCD.
Yep. I will cheat trim too if there is no other way to get things to line up. On my house the courses leading up to the window sills are like 4 5/8 and the courses along the window are pretty much 5 exactly. Your eye will never catch it. The trick is making a story stick with 5 inch course marks on it, and where you need to cheat, mark your desired start and stop locations, and just swing the stick diagonal until the points meet an then mark the wall off the pole. No measuring or math.
 

·
Registered
Butcher of wood and metal
Joined
·
7,005 Posts
Do you mean setting the reveal based off the height of the windows? For example if the window is 72 3/4" from the bottom course and it takes 12 courses of 6" revealed siding to get there, you would cheat each one a 16th? When setting up the layout, before the first nail is sunk, I try to just set the trim further down so it's all the same reveal. From the example I gave above I would just raise the trim 3/4" if possible or run starter trim out of 5/4 pvc to get the first course proper. More time consuming to start but I prefer it to making adjustments on the fly.

I'll admit I set the first course with a laser level too so maybe I'm just OCD.
So do you use a laser on an old house that is no longer level? I check a number of different things when doing my lay out . Like how it comes out with the openings, measure down from the overhang. Alots of time you just have to make it look right to the eye and not a level.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,224 Posts
Randy Bush said:
So do you use a laser on an old house that is no longer level? I check a number of different things when doing my lay out . Like how it comes out with the openings, measure down from the overhang. Alots of time you just have to make it look right to the eye and not a level.
Yes, if I have to cheat courses or make big adjustments I like to do it on the sides or back of a home, never the front. If I pull from the eves and find it out of square on all four sides I bring the homeowner in for their preference. Do you want it all crooked, do you want the courses to line up on all four corners? If so here is how crooked it will be... We did a home last year built in the 1930's and had to pop lines around 3 sides, about 4 courses up to show the homeowner how bad it would look to set it crooked. In the end we set everything level on 3 sides and hid the corrections in the back. Front came out perfect, on the sides the last (top) course went from 4-6" over a 30' run. The back had a chimney splitting the middle so we came in 3 inches higher on one side than the other. Hard to see around the chimney to find the imperfection.


I agree with setting it off looks if you have to. Large windows that are crooked in the front of a home drive me insane. Finding a balance between the eves, the windows, the doors and true level can be frustrating. Luckily most all the work we do is one side of a masonite house. The Masonite with northern exposure goes first. In that case I have no choice but to set up so the courses line up at the corner trim. The pictures below are of a porch overhang. I'm not setting the siding that crooked!


Roof Siding Daylighting Architecture Metal



Roof Property Siding Home Window
 

·
Sophisticated Siding Guy.
Joined
·
528 Posts
95% of the fiber-cement we do is 7" lap. It's what is mainly stocked everywhere. I would defiantly let the customer choose and suggest 7".

Anything else requires special order qty's or cutting down.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
If the customer doesn't care what size siding to use, what size would you suggest? I'm thinking the largest size that still allows it to be blind nailed, because installation will be faster, but there won't be exposed nails. For Certainteed that would be 8 1/4.

Any problems with that analysis? Is there anything easier about installing smaller sizes, weight or otherwise?
I wouldn't use Certainteed. And I'd definitely get it in writing. Most people can't envision what something's going to look like be for it's up. They can all of a sudden dislike your choice.

We do mostly 8 1/4" and 7 1/4. Layout is easier with the 6" reveal though. 7" obviously covers faster though.
 

·
THe IRon Piñata
Joined
·
171 Posts
My personal opinion the size of the house plays a role in what size to go with. 7" is mostly what people with large homes choose. 6" would be for a smaller home.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top