[totes]

The furthermost wall in the picture has failed, slight inward bow, loose joints, ect. The above space used to be a garage, but is now storage, the wall in question has earth behind it top to bottom. How do I remedy this?
-one thought I had was to pour a 6" concrete wall full of rebar directly up against the cmu. I can pull up the subfloor for the pour.
-or, same thing, but tear out the block and replace with concrete.
-third thought, repair the block somehow.

Thoughts?

 

[Patrick]

Whatever you do id get that lady out of the way first

 

[rustyjames]

Pouring another wall to the face of that won't help, unless it's a retaining wall spec., you'd be better off with some structural steel/tie back system, or replace the wall.

 

[NYCB]

Do it right.

Dig out the dirt behind the wall then take the wall down, clean off the footer and lay up new block, then backfill with clean stone.

 

[Rockmonster]

OMG.......I hate when I see this.....

"An ounce of prevention......." we all know the rest....

Yeah, the best thing is to dig it out.....clean it up, and re lay the block.....and to grout the rebar cells this time... (the last time I saw a total fail, the mason had left the rebar stubs out of the footing....but that was IT! No grout, no more rebar.....no Durawall.......and of course the excavation contractor drove parallel to the wall about 18" out:blink

Once, a builder just wanted pilasters to fix what looks like your problem......a moderate fail. We created some pockets in the blockwork, cut through the slab for some reinforced footings, and poured battered concrete pilasters perhaps 18" wide, and going from about 18" deep at the bottom to 6" at the top.......That didn't do a thing to fix what was effed up, but it stopped any further movement. Whether that's enough for you, I don't know......

Good luck.......these are a PITA.......

 

[AmeliaP]

We fix bowed walls (not our own! ) all the time. You have a couple options but it's tough to tell with that photo. It still looks green and the plywood is in the way.

 

[totes]

We fix bowed walls (not our own! ) all the time. You have a couple options but it's tough to tell with that photo. It still looks green and the plywood is in the way.

I will take some more detailed photos soon and post them. The house was built in 1969. I am going to shore up the above wall, remove bottom plate and pop the subfloor. If I then pop the rim joist and mud sill, can I put some steel in each cell and fill with slurry? Is this an acceptable fix? The bow is slight, it's the loose joints which have me worried.
I have to do the described carpentry anyways due to someone backing a car into the wood framed wall.
Yes, I'm a bit out of my element here with this particular job. My girlfriend just bought this house "in the country". My weekends are booked for a bit...

 

[NYCB]

Just core filling what is there probably won't save you.

The rebar needs to be pinned into the footer.

Don't make more work for yourself, just dig it out and lay up a new wall.

 

[AmeliaP]

I wouldn't get real excited about it if it's been like that since 1969. If it looks much newer maybe you should watch it. That steel beam doesn't look like it's from 1969 so maybe something happened when that was put in.

You can probably do pilasters but you need to check with the local building inspector.

 

[totes]

Just core filling what is there probably won't save you.

The rebar needs to be pinned into the footer.

Don't make more work for yourself, just dig it out and lay up a new wall.

Yep, you're right. The right way and the easy way are never the same. New wall time.

 

[totes]

I am finally getting around to this, and here's a picture from the outside of the wall.
I plan on removing the block from the crawlspace, and excavating a foot or so back after that to build forms. Would you dig it out from the outside prior?
Also, the wall is slightly over 4' high, so of course I am having my permits engineered...but what rebar schedule would you guys use in this wall?
Thank you

 

[totes]

And yes, they poured concrete/asphalt right up and over the rim joist without one trace of flashing or felt.
Here's one more pic from underneath. I could use some fill down there so that's not and issue as far as pulling earth down instead of up.