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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What size nails is recommended to face/blind nail 3/4" hardwood??

I have a 18ga nailer but are those nails too small?
 

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I use a 16, but after being here for awhile, I don't know why;). At the suggestion of some regulars here, I use floor adhesive more now, less top nailing.
 

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ArtisanRemod said:
I use a 16, but after being here for awhile, I don't know why;). At the suggestion of some regulars here, I use floor adhesive more now, less top nailing.
I like the glue to. No ugly holes and miss matched putty on a nice new floor.
 

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I'll get called a hack, but here goes.

What if you did nothing but knock the stuff together, put the sofa back on top of it and walked away?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
After getting the master bedroom done the thought of knocking them together and letting it roll did cross my mind. Laying hardwood is a pain in the ass. You floor guys definitely have my respect.
 

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Face nail very last row where floor will be under basemold???
Thats what I usually do. Where you can no longer swing the mallet to set the nail and if I cant get the finish gun to shoot a nail through the tongue I dry-fit the last few rows together then face nail where the base or quarter round covers.

Dont know if there are a pros' or con's to this method but never had a call back or problem doing it this way.
 

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Just a hypothetical. We're talking about a few inches. What if it was all straight material with no gaps and it just sat there?

Just sayin' :)
 

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Paul
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Just a hypothetical. We're talking about a few inches. What if it was all straight material with no gaps and it just sat there?

Just sayin' :)
I'm gonna go with absolutely nothing would happen. Gravity would do it's job and the sun would come up tomorrow.
 

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Paul
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But then there's that whole taking on & losing moisture thing that would come along & screw ya.
I don't think it would have an real effect on three rows.... How many demo jobs have you done and found loose boards? I've done plenty. They didn't jump up and attack anyone lol. I could be wrong too - I have nothing to base it on but logic.
 

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I don't think it would have an real effect on three rows.... How many demo jobs have you done and found loose boards? I've done plenty. They didn't jump up and attack anyone lol. I could be wrong too - I have nothing to base it on but logic.

My only point, if the floor takes on moisture & expands, it's gonna push everything towards the walls. Those loose boards will move easy. Once the moisture goes down in the floor, they won't return to their original place & you'll have gaps. At least if they're nailed, or glued, they won't move as easily. Glued will actually have an elasticity that will partially spring them back into place.
 

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I've taken up stuff that had been down for fifty years and was barely nailed at all. 2-1/4, of course.

I skip one row. The row next to the last row I can blind nail is held down by the first row I top nail. I only do it for the sake of making fewer holes. Thing is, I've taken up so much stuff that was apparently held together with urethane, and you'd never know it unless you ripped it up.
 

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Paul
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My only point, if the floor takes on moisture & expands, it's gonna push everything towards the walls. Those loose boards will move easy. Once the moisture goes down in the floor, they won't return to their original place & you'll have gaps. At least if they're nailed, or glued, they won't move as easily. Glued will actually have an elasticity that will partially spring them back into place.
True. I usually just glue the last few rows and pry everything tight and top nail the last row under the base or quarter round.
 

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I've taken up old floors that were barely fastened, or fastened poorly. Sure they "lasted" a long time but the were loose and squeaky and generally look like ****. I may use 1.5" staples now, but theres no way I'm not nailing a floor lol
 
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