Any lead paint involved?
Exterior Painting
Hey guys, I have a couple questions about exterior painting. The project I am going to bid on is a historic home with wood siding(4"). The existing paint is peeling badly in a lot of spots. They want it mechanically scraped, then primed and painted. So my first question is will I need to prime everything, or just the spots scrapped down to bare wood? I will be applying two top coats of resilience. My next question is should I spray this or brush by hand? If spraying it then what is the best way to back roll over the 4" siding? Thanks for the help guys.
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Prime everything, without a doubt.
Spray and backbrush with a 3 1/2" - 4" brush. I like a 3 1/2 cause I feel like it works the paint into the pores better.
I'm just too afraid to go spray only on a historic. Even after good prep and prime. But I'm sure the real painters will be along soon.
Spray and backbrush with a 3 1/2" - 4" brush. I like a 3 1/2 cause I feel like it works the paint into the pores better.
I'm just too afraid to go spray only on a historic. Even after good prep and prime. But I'm sure the real painters will be along soon.
Historic? Yes.Any lead paint involved?
Yeah I think lead paint is involved, testing underway.
Prime everything. Don't spray it
Should I sand the surface after scrapping? Or just scrap, prime entire house, then apply 2 topcoats?
SOS... I think you might be a homeowner and perhaps the DIy network might be a better venue...
but, in response... You probably have not described the degree of historic restoration involved in this residence... if it was an actual historical designation issue, I would have thought that you would have been issued specs for the job.
Be forwarned, as a contractor that if you do have lead paint, you have certain designations and legally required procedures to follow....and some big time fines/issues involved if you don't comply.
Assuming lead is not involved.... your prep is a function of the quality demanded. Clearly at a minium, it needs to be thoroughly scrapped. Whether you sand/taper adhereing paint is a degree of quality issue.
I've used a product called something like Peel Stop, which is a high adhesive primer intended to seal down existing "good" paint not scrapped off.
Where I used it has just over one year of exposure so I'm not sure how good it is. Would love to know any one else's experience.
You say you have 4" something (clap/ship/TnG?) but you will get a much better job (quality) brushing... but I can't guess at your project to know whether that is warrented.
Good luck
but, in response... You probably have not described the degree of historic restoration involved in this residence... if it was an actual historical designation issue, I would have thought that you would have been issued specs for the job.
Be forwarned, as a contractor that if you do have lead paint, you have certain designations and legally required procedures to follow....and some big time fines/issues involved if you don't comply.
Assuming lead is not involved.... your prep is a function of the quality demanded. Clearly at a minium, it needs to be thoroughly scrapped. Whether you sand/taper adhereing paint is a degree of quality issue.
I've used a product called something like Peel Stop, which is a high adhesive primer intended to seal down existing "good" paint not scrapped off.
Where I used it has just over one year of exposure so I'm not sure how good it is. Would love to know any one else's experience.
You say you have 4" something (clap/ship/TnG?) but you will get a much better job (quality) brushing... but I can't guess at your project to know whether that is warrented.
Good luck
I would sand after scraping. It'll help feather it out . Prime everything, caulk, then apply your topcoats. If its lead then quadruple your bid.SOS said:Should I sand the surface after scrapping? Or just scrap, prime entire house, then apply 2 topcoats?
I used peel stop three years ago in Dallas. I went back a few months ago and it looked great. I also used it on another job in Virginia with no issues.MTN REMODEL LLC said:SOS... I think you might be a homeowner and perhaps the DIy network might be a better venue...
but, in response... You probably have not described the degree of historic restoration involved in this residence... if it was an actual historical designation issue, I would have thought that you would have been issued specs for the job.
Be forwarned, as a contractor that if you do have lead paint, you have certain designations and legally required procedures to follow....and some big time fines/issues involved if you don't comply.
Assuming lead is not involved.... your prep is a function of the quality demanded. Clearly at a minium, it needs to be thoroughly scrapped. Whether you sand/taper adhereing paint is a degree of quality issue.
I've used a product called something like Peel Stop, which is a high adhesive primer intended to seal down existing "good" paint not scrapped off.
Where I used it has just over one year of exposure so I'm not sure how good it is. Would love to know any one else's experience.
You say you have 4" something (clap/ship/TnG?) but you will get a much better job (quality) brushing... but I can't guess at your project to know whether that is warrented.
Good luck
If it is a historic restoration, you will have to scrape, repair, fill all holes and scrapes, gouges, etc. Then sand and prime. Then fill all the things you couldn't see before you primed them. Then fill and sand the newly filled areas and paint edges that pop up. Spray and back brush.
It is a long process to do it right. Or you could just spray everything and get your check. :whistling
It is a long process to do it right. Or you could just spray everything and get your check. :whistling
I am a small general contractor, but most of my experience is interior painting. This year I have been getting calls for exterior work, and this will be the 3rd one this year. There is no specifications, its a small town historical society, although there are other bidders. They say they are exempt from the lead paint because no children are present. Ive never heard that before. This is Iowa.
They may be exempt, but what about all the neighbors....I am a small general contractor, but most of my experience is interior painting. This year I have been getting calls for exterior work, and this will be the 3rd one this year. There is no specifications, its a small town historical society, although there are other bidders. They say they are exempt from the lead paint because no children are present. Ive never heard that before. This is Iowa.
Surely you will foul the air, taint the water & poison the ground with all the lead you are going to grind off...:whistling:laughing:
I was going to collect all the chips with tarps and try to avoid sanding. What do you suggest?
Is it a commercial building?
Personally this whole EPA lead certified crap is nothing more than a racket. It's just a way to create revenue for the government. The homeowner can soil the ground and contaminate the air, but not contractors.
If what's there is lead paint (and it likely is) I would highly suggest that you take every bit of the old paint off. I've never really seen anything stick well to lead paint, it always flakes off after a couple years. So, once you are down to bare wood, you obviously need to seal/prime everything. Don't be afraid to make money on an historic exterior restoration, it will take you 5 times longer than you ever expected - especially if you haven't tackled a job like it before
As far as spray vs brush; spray is going to look very out of place on an old home. Brush will just "look right" IMO
As far as spray vs brush; spray is going to look very out of place on an old home. Brush will just "look right" IMO
I just finished one, and am in the middle of another right now.
I would only add:
Since it sounds like you will be sanding, invest in a CT26 vacuum and a Rotex125 sander. They will pay for themselves on this one job. Mow the grass very short, lay tarps and occasionally mist (very light) with water to keep the particles from becoming airborne.
Invest in Abatron WoodEpox and LiquidWood.
PeelStop is worth the $. Spec it, use it.
High quality oil-based primer is your best friend.
Plan on a large amount of prep time. This will not be like an interior job. The painting is the easy part. Scraping, sanding, repairs, caulking , cleaning, priming......and the lead issue, is where you will get killed if you don't allow the $ for it.
Only worse if it had vinyl on it for 40 years.
I would only add:
Since it sounds like you will be sanding, invest in a CT26 vacuum and a Rotex125 sander. They will pay for themselves on this one job. Mow the grass very short, lay tarps and occasionally mist (very light) with water to keep the particles from becoming airborne.
Invest in Abatron WoodEpox and LiquidWood.
PeelStop is worth the $. Spec it, use it.
High quality oil-based primer is your best friend.
Plan on a large amount of prep time. This will not be like an interior job. The painting is the easy part. Scraping, sanding, repairs, caulking , cleaning, priming......and the lead issue, is where you will get killed if you don't allow the $ for it.
Only worse if it had vinyl on it for 40 years.
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Repaints have been my gig for a while...old house = lead. Big issue around here if not done properly with big fines. I would wait to get results from test before making plans but most homes we do in that style want old school brush work.
I would use a stripper and strip everything down to bare wood, then sand, prime with a good oil primer, caulk any cracks, fill holes, 2 coats of paint. That's my process when dealing with lead paint. The clean up not that bad either, the 6 mil plastic hold up well to the stripper. It's a pain, and very expensive but the results are a new house.
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