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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First off, I'm an electrician, not a painter.

I'm looking at painting the exterior of my house later this year probably fall time. My question is should I buy a sprayer and spray it? or should I use a brush and roller?

I see the Pros using a sprayer all the time but some of the older neighbors tell me to roll it on because it will hold better. I would think spraying would be better because the paint comes out as a mist and I would think it would get in the small cracks better. The house was built in 85, I have some siding to fix and do the usual prep with caulking and whatnot.

What kind of paint will hold up the longest? I was planning on using Sherwin Williams since thats what I see Pros use all the time.
 

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If you spray, you need to backbrush also.

I just did my old house....sprayed the trim (and backbrushed).....brushed the lap siding (quick and easy enough to just brush IMO).

Sherwin....good. BenMoore.....good. Good oil-based primer.....great. Thorough and high quality prep work....excellent!

A real painter will be along soon to offer actual help. I will return to my normal profession.....globe-trotting rapscallion.
 

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Given the choice, with no other information, I'd spot prime with a brush, spray and backroll the first coat, then just spray the rest of the coats.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Should I just prime the whole thing? It hasn't been painted in 20+ years. Should I use oil base paint?
 

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Should I just prime the whole thing? It hasn't been painted in 20+ years. Should I use oil base paint?
Chances are that was painted with latex. If so, spot prime with oil. If basically everything comes off during prep, then I'd oil prime the whole thing. Not ideal, but a good time saver.

If the exposed wood is basically sound and doesn't have degradation of the fibers (soft and fuzzy if you give it a quick sand), then you can use a latex primer.
 

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Should I just prime the whole thing? It hasn't been painted in 20+ years. Should I use oil base paint?
A rag dipped in lacquer thinner ( or even alcohol) will soften up latex and it will show on the rag. If it does that, just wash that area well and top coat with latex without priming. If you rub lacquer thinner onto an area and it doesn't rub/melt onto to your rag...it's solvent based.
Go from there. Solvent can go back over solvent (properly prepared) but if you want to switch your top coat to latex, you'll need to prime those oil based areas first. The primers to do that can be latex OR oil based. If choosing to prime with latex, go high quality like Zinsser 123.
 

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What is the purpose of priming? Is it peeling? If so, spot prime with SW Peel Bond. This stuff holds like glue and dries clear.

If there is no visible issues no need. Use Sherwin-Williams Duration and be done with it.
 

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With out seeing it the best we can do is generalize what to do. I will say that the more prep work the better and it will pay off.
Generally speaking: make any repairs as necessary, wash the house with soap and bleach, scrape any loose paint and wire brush just to scuff the whole surface.
When it comes to painting there are several ways to go.
Spot prime all bare wood with oil primer, then paint. If it has been 20 years then I think I would oil prime the whole house and then two coats of SW Duration. It will pay off by not needing painted for another 20 years.
Forget the roller.
Either brush the whole thing or spray. I think it depends upon how the house is broken up by windows, and doors, small areas of siding can be brushed just as quick as spraying. Especially for a one man crew.
Maybe an option is to spray soffits etc and brush siding.
The sprayer may not save you as much time as you think. Remember, prep and prime pay off.
 
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