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Discussion Starter #1
This project is my own house and since we already own the spray since we did the inside I'd like to tackle the exterior. I don't typically need painters on my projects, though I have used them, as a lot of my clients want to do their own painting so I don't have a trusted sub to ask.

The weather forecast over the next 10 days calls for showers and cloudy but there are about three days with partly sunny and upper 60s, low 70s. My siding is grooved cedar and most of it is previously painted except the new garage and the South side of the house, both of which are new preprimed siding.

I think I'm going to go with Sherwin Williams Resilience in flat finish as it has a quick dry time and can be recoated in a couple hours. It has some mixed reviews online though but those are always so circumstantial.

What do you guys think about the Resilience line in general for my application? Superpaint is a bit less expensive but with the iffy weather it seems a few bucks more per gallon is good insurance.

Also, I'll be using a .15 tip and Graco X5 (I know it's not the best sprayer ever)

Thanks.
 

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I use Resilience, always worked well for me. I think it is rain proof in 1.5 hours. I like that it comes in quarts also, sucks that you can't get Duration in quarts.

Tip should be fine. If you sprayed 50 gallons or more through the tip, replace it before you start this job.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I've probably sprayed 10 gallons or so and I'm super OCD about cleaning it after each use.

Did you experience the "tacky" issue?

Is it recommended to backroll over grooved cedar siding and if so what nap?

I wonder how much of an area I can spray at a time in order to keep a wet edge?

Out of curiosity, why do you like the quart option for exterior?

Thanks
 

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The quart option comes in when you need just over a gallon to get good coverage and for trim.

It's not a matter of cleaning, the paint wears the tip out.

You should be able to get a roller head for your gun. 1/2" nap at least maybe a 3/4, a Golden Eagle if you don't get the roller head.

Depends how wet you put it on, 4 mils is the recommended thickness, go a little heavier. How much area depends on to many factors to know the answer, it could change from morning to afternoon.

No tacky issue.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Tom. I was just calculating how much paint to get. I've got 1563 square feet to paint and I figured I would average 200 sq/ft per gallon through the sprayer so 16 gallons. SW is having a sale right now so about $35 for Resilience.

Yes siding is the grooved Cedar. In terms of rolling I'm a little concerned that I'll get a line where the roller follows the upper course, since it's a double course.

I'll look into the roller head. Were you suggesting that instead of spraying?
 

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You won't go wrong with Resiliance, tip size sounds fine but read the can and see what is suggested.
This time of year let the first coat dry really well before applying the second coat.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I thought about that but don't think it would work out well with double course siding. The sprayer allows me to get the upper section of the lower course that isn't easily reachable, even with a brush.

thanks again!
 

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I live in Astoria. I use Resilience A LOT! I would say, it's probably your only hope right now. It skins over within about an hour (in this weather) and can take on light mist in about 75-90 minutes. Just make sure you prime the bare wood, and backroll everything to really get it in those grooves so it gets a good bite. My only concern would be getting the house thoroughly dry after all this rain. I assumed you washed it already?! Hopefully you can time it right during those 3 days. Out here, with any nice days that we get, Resilience is the only thing I would consider using, and you're only 95 miles from me. Also, watch how thick you spray it on during this time of year.

Good luck:thumbsup:
 

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I have a feeling 15 gallons might be on the high side. You can buy the base untinted during their sales and then bring it in to get tinted when you're ready. I'd tint up 10 and go from there. Definitely a good paint for this season. Spray and backroll. You can use a 1/2"x9" or a whizz type roller. Make sure to stop by 4 pm to give enough time to setup before dew.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks Derek and Damon.

I did buy the paint, untinted, during the sale and got 2 5 gallon buckets as well as 7 single gallon buckets. I plan to tint the two 5 gallon buckets to start.

Our forecast calls for showers through Wednesday and then 3 days of sun. I'm thinking I should pressure wash on Wednesday morning, even if its raining so it has 2 of those non rain days to dry out then paint on the third. We have been deluged with windy rain in the last few days so the siding is soaked pretty well.

As far as backrolling, I'm still unclear about how to do that on this type of siding. Do I roll across instead of up and down? There is no way to get into the overhang portion since it's double course. I'm concerned that if I use a roller and go horizontal I'll have a flash line.

thanks!
 

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I always spray the siding horizontally, 4-5 rows at a time, then backroll vertically. Keeping a wet edge is key, that's why 4-5 rows at a time, then move down to the next 4-5 rows. As long as you cut off at the overlap, there shouldn't be any flash. Not sure what the soffitt looks like, but I usually roll what's easy and visible, then move on. The rest won't be seen much, and won't weather as fast either. Example: If you have 2x6 sticks coming down with sheeting behind to form that overhang, I would backroll the sheeting, and leave the rest. If it's smooth sheeting all the way, then I would backroll lengthwise.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks Derek.

Sorry for being dense but I'm still a bit confused as to how to backroll double course siding up and down when I have a big lip there. Do I just butt up to the lip and call it good?

I have open overhang eaves with 2x6 rake boards. The CDX from the roof is raw as we redid the entire roof so I need to prime that.

Thanks.
 

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Thanks Derek.

Sorry for being dense but I'm still a bit confused as to how to backroll double course siding up and down when I have a big lip there. Do I just butt up to the lip and call it good?

I have open overhang eaves with 2x6 rake boards. The CDX from the roof is raw as we redid the entire roof so I need to prime that.

Thanks.
If I'm understanding correctly, then yes, exactly:thumbsup:
Butt up to the lip, then done.

Either that, or roll over the lip, if you're double course is above it.

A picture might be good for clarification....
 

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I've got a couple pics in a prior post on this thread that should show the double course.
Oh yeah, duh:blink: I was looking right at it. I would spray and roll that double course by itself. I would do it all vertical. When you start rolling the siding underneath that double course, I would butt the roller up to the lip above.
 
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