Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum banner
Cancel
Create thread New Forums

Exterior Light to Stucco

Jump to Latest
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
C

Capt2

· Registered
Joined
·
85 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
What is the best way to mount a new exterior surface lantern on stucco? I don't want to use a surface mount block or box (won't look good) Can I use a 4" circular pancake box and recess it? If so what is the easiest way to make a hole for the recess?
Any suggestions otherwise? Do I really need a box?
 
#4 ·
Sure would be nice to know how thick it is until you get to the sheathing. Short answer is, I use a grit hole saw most of the time to get the stucco out of the way, and screw a (generally an octagon) box to the sheathing. If I was doing that work, I'd try to see how thick of a wall fininish material I'm dealing with, then formulate a plan from that.
 
#5 ·
If it's 20 years old it's probably conventional stucco(portland cement), even if it is synthetic the brown coat(base layer) is portland cement.

But in all honesty you don't need a box seeing as the fixture is a junction box in itself.
When stubbing out your romex I like to beat a hole with a screw driver into the stucco just around the circumference of the hole you need to drill through the sheathing. You can use a hole saw if you like but the conventional stucco is usually thick and the synthetic is harder on tools.
 
#7 ·
mdshunk said:
I'm gonna have to ask you for a code citation on that one, brother.
Click to expand...
Guess you got me on my code book savvy.

But now that I think of it, I guess the only time I have simply stubbed a cable through the wall is when the fixture has a knockout to secure the cable. When the fixture has no seperation between it and the box then I always use a box.

So you better put a 4" hole in the stucco and use a "panic" box if you can, or else cut the same size hole in the sheathing and attach a normal box by whatever means possible.
 
#10 ·
Sparky Joe said:
But now that I think of it, I guess the only time I have simply stubbed a cable through the wall is when the fixture has a knockout to secure the cable. When the fixture has no seperation between it and the box then I always use a box.
Click to expand...
Right, like most wall packs don't need a box, for instance, because they have a knockout. Open backed canopy = you need a box.
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Thanks for all the replies. About that box requirement.......Ok so if the back is open you need one, if the back is closed and has a KO you don't need one.
How about if you have a bathroom light bar, closed back with a little (aprox 3/8"). smooth hole??
(The hole doesn't appear to be a KO that you can fasten a romex connector to.) Pretty common
 
#14 ·
Most decrotive(spelling) light's that are majority in the front of the building do not need a j-box If,If,the point of exiting is directly behind where the light is going to be mounted

Now that been said, Most flood light need a weather proof J-box
 
#16 ·
mdshunk said:
An old work box.
Click to expand...

Never heard it called a "Panic Box" before but I like the sound of it.
I had a contractor stucco and color coat a new house on us two weeks ago, Before the exterior boxes were in, heck we had just gotten started on the job and had to pull off due to lack of information on his part. I used the 3 1/2'' grit hole saw on them:clap: that saved the day.
 
#18 ·
acrwc10 said:
Never heard it called a "Panic Box" before but I like the sound of it.
Click to expand...
To each their own, but I've always heard "pancake boxes" called "panic boxes". I think the sound similiraty is how it came about.

And Capt2 you had it right a few posts ago; if there's a knockout it's a box, if not you need a box.
 
#19 ·
Coach lights are a future project for me in a number of locations. The house is concrete block, got the hole, got the box, got the wire. What's the best way to fasten the box to the block? Diamond saw the hole and TapCon from the sides?
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#20 ·
Teetorbilt said:
Coach lights are a future project for me in a number of locations. The house is concrete block, got the hole, got the box, got the wire. What's the best way to fasten the box to the block? Diamond saw the hole and TapCon from the sides?
Click to expand...
Installing a flush box in concrete block for old work is always a problem. I cut the hole by whatever means and install the box either by grouting it in with mortar or fixing it in place with one of those 2 part epoxy caulking kits. Doing it yourself isn't so bad, but paying an electrician to do it gets a little pricey. It takes two trips. One to cut the hole and fix the box in place, then another to return once the mortar or epoxy is set up to hang the light. I personally don't think you'll have much success Tapconning through the sides of the box into the inch or so thickness of the face of the block. There are no trick old work boxes on the market yet made especially to install flush in concrete block. American ingenuity is still required. :notworthy
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
About this Discussion
24 Replies
8 Participants
Last post:
mdshunk
Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum
posts
3.6M
members
170K
Since
2003
A forum community dedicated to professional construction and remodeling contractors. Come join the discussion about the industry, trades, safety, projects, finishing, tools, machinery, styles, scales, reviews, accessories, classifieds, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
General Discussion Tools & Equipment Business Painting & Finish Work Decks & Fencing