[davinci]

when installing new jambs,you guys use "smooth pine" ( 1 x's) ? or poplar smooth?

 

[CookeCarpentry]

Depends on width, finish, budget, etc....

 

[Cole82]

I like useing colonial door stop. It dresses it up real nice. 1x poplar is just for large gaps even then I like to dress it up and hit it with the router quick.

 

[welterweight]

we use a 1 x 5 in smooth pine. i think you are referring to a wide jamb.

 

[mrmike]

I use 1x's premium pine, which I guess you are calling "smooth" . I try to get it with not many knots. I think your talking about extenting the jambs out to meet with flush to the interior wall..............

 

[welterweight]

thats what we use. yes,i believe that is what he is referring too. i am guessing its also new construction.
a 1 x 8 in smooth pine costs us about 25 bucks.

 

[IHI]

All depends. Sometimes solid wood, sometimes wood veneer, sometimes MDF. Lately we've been using the heck out of "veneered door jamb" stock for stained applications since it's 1/4 of the price and still "looks" like solid stock. Really helps in the budget crunching putting projects together with no money per say....it gets them "the look" without spending big time bucks.

 

[MJW]

Whatever matches the trim. Usually it's solid oak. Pine with pine, and so on.

 

[BKFranks]

Mdf

 

[WNYcarpenter]

For really wide extensions we'll use 1/2 AC... for regular extensions we use solid 1x. our local supplier carries select pine/poplar you could get either!?

stained,We match, ..........painted, as a standard is poplar.

 

[TimelessQuality]

If it's less than 2 1/2" or so, I try to use rips from the base mldg... that way it matches nicely.

You might have to tighten up the casing reveal a little (thinner stock)

Otherwise, wrapped jamb stock or the real deal.

 

[cleveman]

I started using tilebacker and tiling the jamb extensions.

 

[WNYcarpenter]

I started using tilebacker and tiling the jamb extensions.

That sounds cool...any pics?.....I like that idea alot actually:thumbsup:

 

[cleveman]

I haven't been successful posting photos. I decided to do this first in a basement, where the walls were firred out. The jambs must be 10 1/2" wide. I thought there was no way to use anything but plywood on something that wide, and they always get so dirty and beat up.

I brought out the tile the thickness of the window casing. In this case, it was the real cheap ranch style oak window casing, 2 1/4" wide. It is about 3/16" thick at the thin side, so I had the tile come out proud of the sheetrock by 3/16" and it is flush with the trim installed.

Just be sure to use porcelain (through and through), so the edges look nice. You'll find on normal windows (less than 4" extensions) you can use up your scraps.

Of course you could also use granite, marble, whatever. You could also use one-piece sills as is common in other parts of the world.

 

[WarnerConstInc.]

I just order them with the windows.

 

[NormW]

Poplar paints beautifully. That said, it's generally more expensive than clear pine, and it rots if exposed to moisture. I don't believe it stains well either.

I would use pine, unless I was doing stained work, than I'd match what was used on the actual window and/or trim.

 

[CharlesD]

Like someone said theydid, I match the window. If I'm going in against a new vinyl window with wood extensions I like 5 Quarter Popular. I always use pocket holes to keep the joints tight.

 

[Chasing Dreams]

Depends on what the customer wants. Pine, Poplar, Oak, Hickory, the flavors are endless.
One of the more popular flavors we have seen this year is using azek. Alot of customers that have had prevous experience with moisture damage along the sill want to use azek.
As long as the money is good, I would jamb it out in OSB:shutup: if that is what the customer wanted.:laughing:
I have a love:clap:/hate:furious: relationship with the white plastic myself.