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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'm restoring some old kitchen cabinets that have exposed hinges. The cabinets have faceframes and a 3/8 inset.

I noticed the exposed hinges prevent the door from closing flush due to the hinges own thickness. This makes for quite an eyesore, i would like to get the doors to sit flat on the faceframe.

I was thinking of using euro hinges if its even possible without making this into a huge project. The 3/8 inset doesnt allow enough room to screw the hinge to the side of the faceframe as far as i can tell. What should i do?

I was thinking of attaching blocks behind the faceframe to screw the hinges, or some fancy overpriced hinge that wraps around the back of the faceframe are my only options. Both of which are routes i would rather not take, as i have 20 of these to do.
 

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How thick is the door? I have face hinges on my kitchen cabinets with a inset as you are talking about, but the door is not thick enough for euro hinges due to the fact that you have to bore for it.

Pictures would be good.
 

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Maker of Fine Sawdust
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Are you saying these doors are partial inset? That they have a rabbet around the door so the door is 3/8" inside and 3/8" outside the faceframe?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Heres what im working with


The thickness of the panel is roughly 3/4 inch thick, so i have some room to drill for the euro hinges, mounting it to the cabinet is the problem

This is the block i was referring to


And these kind of hinges do the job perfectly, but at the price im finding them at, id be better off getting new cabinets altogether
 

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I don't mean to piss anyone off here .Especially a DIY but that is a total hack job.
Do a job,big or small, do it right or don't do it at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I don't mean to piss anyone off here .Especially a DIY but that is a total hack job.
Do a job,big or small, do it right or don't do it at all.
I agree, thats why that method was never really an option, just an idea...but to be fair that example i found on google was a poor one...that block could be much smaller, sanded up nice and made the same color as the cabinet
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
If you add timber like the block idea make it a full height mullion,it will look much tidier and less of a balls up
Im thinking of going this route, im spraying these white, so making the mullion look like a factory part of the cabinet should be easy
 

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I'm lost in these picture.

First set is 3/8 rabbeted, probably Amerock,

4th pick is a full overlay euro, probably Blum, based on the Rockler reference.

Last pick is 3/8 rabbeted euro. (Or as you say half inset.

Do your homework my friend and ask a little more specific question.

Euro cabinet hinges are the calculus of cabinet building.
 

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We had another cabinetmaker come in the other day looking for some help to get a partial overlay door and a Euro hinge set up to work. My partner and him put this set up together. It seemed to work fine.

This is a half cranked 170 hinge on a 18 mil plate. The mock up is figuring that the interior member is either flush with the opening or you pad out to the opening.



image-1934734262.jpg



image-4142022993.jpg


I thought the edge of the door would bind on the frame but I was pleasantly surprised to discover I was wrong. It looks kinda clunky but it works.
 
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