Nevermind. A Wooster Silvertip and thicker coat works perfectly.

Unless I drop the trim when I move it.

But that's a different story.

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I bet a cap of float rolls would enable a thinner quicker curing coat.

 

You say foam roller no works ?

 

I like a little floetrol in my Emerald Urethane. Also I like a Wooster Ultra Pro for brushing it.

 

Is that the Firm version of the ULTRA PRO. I use a ton of Emerald Semi on interior trim. Mostly a short nap 4 inch roller. Not much luck with the foam ones

 

Yeah, I usually use the ultra pro firm.

It took me a while to get used to foam rollers, it’s a little different feel and technique. I’m a fan of Purdy Parrot covers for trim enamel too.

 

I add a little latex extender, do not over work it. Lay on the Emerald and leave it alone to self level.

 

Floetrol is old tech, and depending upon the gloss of paint you're using, could also affect sheen. There are better alternatives. BM's 518 or XIM to name a few.

 

So you can really tell a difference? I’ve mostly used floetrol with Emerald Urethane and BM extender (518?) with wall paints like scuff x so apples to oranges, can’t really compare them. I’ve heard good things about the XIM extender and I like some of their other stuff but I don’t think I’ve ever actually tried it.

 

I ended up not using the floetrol. It will go back.

Also, one coat with the Silvertip looks great. Second coat over the Nylox coat looks better, but more brush marks.

I might have gone with a roller with this new feedback, but I'm committed now. Heavy coat, long brush strokes seems to be the ticket.

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Red velour covers work for the likes of Emerald Ute, for future ref.

 

This has turned into a great thread.

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Troy, that's a great overview for the oil based paints
So what's a good Floetrol substitute for latex paints? For extending open time and enhanced leveling, reducing brush marks, etc.
Can you share your expertise? Much appreciated.

 

I don't want to have to add anything to paints if I have to I don't want it. Used a lot of Penetrol back in the day but had oils that didn't need it. Never cared for Floetrol either, again if needs an additive no thanks.

 

I agree, i do not use additives routinely. I find the need for additives, in this case latex extender, because the environment one is working is causing the open paint in your pot, or roller pan, to start evaporating / drying quicker than normal. That situation then causes problems as it can not “lay down” on the surface to be painted and allowed to self level before drying too quickly.Therefore I add extender in these situations.

 

To heat paint just do hot water in a pot or can, & place product can in the hot water.
In the booth we keep a hot plate warmer to keep water hot, & just set gun cup in it.

 

We've got a 5 gallon bucket heater. Just wraps around a 5 gallon bucket with either paint in it, or a gallon can setting down in water in the 5 gallon bucket. Works really good at thinning viscosity on lacquers so we don't have to use reducer.

 

I can't spray due to weather and space. These are the brushmarks I got. Rolling juat makes it look like sandpaper.

Will flotrol help them lay down?

Purdy Nylox brush. Going to try a different brush as well. View attachment 547513

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Actually It looks like there's an issue with the bristles, two or three stuck together or paint is coagulated within the bristles...make sure its clean before you start and try flipping the brush over to the other side, and using lighter pressure too. To limit coagulation problem, use a small paint pot/work pot, they are shallower than a gallon can. Pour only about an inch of paint in the pot then put the lid back on the can right away.

 

Continued;
That way you get a fresh batch of paint more often, and less exposure to the air. I agree with you about the brush...Nylox are kinda stiff for emerald urethane. Softer is better.

 

This thread is very helpful information for me. I had a similar problem with Emerald Urethane, I believe I was also using a Purdy Nylox. I didn't have the same issues using that brush with scuffX. So is the key a brush with softer bristles and not overworking it?

 

Best lay down is starting with a heavy but not drippy paint load, not over brushing and working fast. If you still can't get it, switch brushes.

There are always technique differences between painters, so the best brush can vary.

 

Hi FixItFarmer, Yes, that is the key, along with clean fresh paint supply. those deep grooves in the pic aren't brush marks, they look like flaw marks to me. Also, when brushing on a table it's easy to un intentionally bear down too much.